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Leaves are falling from the trees, and the grass
is dormant. The petunias are dying and the pansies are in full bloom.
Days are shorter and nights are colder. Winter is upon us. To me,
winter has its good and bad points. It's good that I don't have to cut
the grass for several months. It's bad that I have to close the pool
for several months. It's good that I don't have to run the air
conditioning, but bad that I have to turn the furnace on.
For the RVer in all of us, winter is a time for
making decisions. Do we park the RV and prepare it for the harsh winter
months ahead, or do we pack it up and flee due south? Many of these
decisions are made for us, and don't require our input. What I mean is,
if you already live in a warm climate then winter is not a big issue.
If you can take time away from work and travel south in the winter the
decision is made for you. If you have managed to save lots of money
during your working years, and can afford to travel all year the
decision is made. If the children are gone, and you still have money
left, the decision is made. Unfortunately, for some of us, we don't
live in a warm climate, we can't afford to take any more time off of
work, we haven't saved a lot of money, and the kids are still here
spending what money we did manage to put aside. So without much input
from me, the decision to park the RV and prepare it for winter has
already been made.
If the same decision was made for you, whether
it's due to where you live, your job, how much discretional money you
have, or where your children currently reside, not all is lost. The big
decision has already been made. We're going to park the RV for the
winter. Parking the RV for winter will require some preventive measures
so it will be ready to use next spring. You'll also be glad you did it
when you don't have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of
winter. Now the question is how do you prepare it for winter, and who
will be doing it? If you're like me and you enjoy performing the
routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars,
the “who” part is answered. As for the “how” part, I have taken a
checklist from my “Checklists for RVers” e-book that I feel is the easiest and most effective way to winterize and store your RV http://www.rveducation101.com/ebooks.htm?siteID=0
If you would like to actually see how to winterize your RV check out my “Winterizing and Storing your RV” DVD, Video Details
Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:
- Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do).
- A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
- A wand to clean out holding tanks.
- A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
- Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.
Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it
from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific
winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.
- If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass before starting.
- Drain the fresh water holding tank.
- Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves.
- Drain the water heater. Open the pressure
relief valve and remove the drain plug. CAUTION (never drain the water
heater when it is hot or under pressure).
- Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower.
- Locate and open low point drain lines. Using
the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as
the system is drained.
- Recap all drains and close all faucets.
- By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a
by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze
before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of
antifreeze.
- Install a water pump converter kit, or
disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh
water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of
RV antifreeze.
- Turn the water pump on and pressurize the
system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then
cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as
required.
- Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower.
- Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
- Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to
release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet. Remove the small
screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver
until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.
- Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a couple of cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.
- If
your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This
will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.
- Make sure all faucets are closed.
- Consult your owner manuals for winterizing icemakers and washing machines.
- The unit is winterized.
Now that the unit is winterized we will want to prepare
the RV for storage. The storage procedures are divided into two
sections, the coach storage and the chassis storage. Follow the steps
below that apply: Part 1 (Coach Storage)
- Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.
- If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be
sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing
mold and mildew.
- Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the
parking brake off. If you're storing a Pop Up angle the tongue downward
to assist in snow and water run off.
- Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's
recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the
harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the
ground.
- If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.
- Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
- Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
- Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.
- On a Pop Up make absolutely sure the fabric is
clean and dry before storing. This is a good time to check for tears,
and repair the fabric.
- Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window
sealant for cracks and openings. Consult your dealer for sealants
compatible with these materials.
- Service all locks with a graphite spray lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40.
- Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the LP gas
supply valve off. If you're storing a Pop Up or travel trailer make
sure the LP gas regulator is covered.
- Remove
the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage.
This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to
replace it next spring.
- Insects are attracted to the odorant that is
added to LP gas. To prevent mud dabbers and wasps from building nests
in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the
furnace vent and the water heater vent.
- Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.
- Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV.
- Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.
- Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.
- Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.
- Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the
refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking
soda inside to absorb odors.
- Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.
- Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
- Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.
- The use of Maxx Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.
Storing Your RV Part 2 (Chassis Storage)
- Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free.
- Charge all batteries to a full charge. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery.
- Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.
- If you plan to start the unit while in storage,
and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries
in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight
hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.
- If you put the unit in long-term storage remove
and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep
the batteries charged.
- During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.
- If you don't plan on starting the unit, or
won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply
store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it
will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream
from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps
on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS
PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE
- Fill the fuel tank prior to storage
and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough
for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer's
directions.
- If the unit is not in long-term
storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the
generator with a minimum ½ rated load. Consult your generator set
owners manual for rated loads.
- Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and
the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can
corrode engine bearings.
- Check the engine radiator for the proper
concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the
correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system
every 2 to 3 years.
- Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.
- Perform a full chassis lubrication prior to storage.
This completes the steps that are required to protect your investment when it's time to park it for the winter.
Happy camping,
Mark
Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.
RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of
America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and
e-books.http://www.rveducation101.com/
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