Product Knowledge

What is all this confusing talk about weights? The weight issue is probably the most critical and least understood issue you will confront when purchasing a towable RV. It is critical because a mismatched tow vehicle and trailer can put you and your loved ones safety in jeopardy. It can also result in expensive repair bills for damage and premature wear to major components on your tow vehicle. It is the least understood issue because the buyer is not educated on weight concerns until it is too late.

Trying to cover everything involved on this subject in a short article is like trying to find the needle in a haystack. For a more in depth look at these topics check out our video production “Trailer Towing, Weights Hitch Work & Backing” at >> http://rveducation101.com/trainingvideos.htm?siteID=0

Let's start with the tow vehicle. The vehicle manufacturer determines tow vehicle ratings. Extensive testing is done and many factors are considered such as; engine size, transmission, axle ratio, chassis, suspension, brakes, tires, cooling system, and tow packages. Any time a vehicle or trailer is given a rating it is based on the weakest link in the chain. For example, the axle on a trailer may be capable of supporting 5,000 pounds, but if the tires on the axle can only support 3,000 pounds the axle is rated for 3,000 pounds. This is why it is crucial that you never exceed a manufacturers rating.

You can take five ½ ton trucks with the same engine, and tow ratings can vary by 4,000 pounds. One of the major factors affecting tow ratings is the rear axle ratio. Very basically, the axle ratio is a comparison of how many times the drive shaft rotates versus the wheels. If you have a 3.73:1 axle ratio it means the drive shaft rotates 3.73 times for each rotation of the wheels. The higher the numeric value of the rear axle the better it tows, but you compromise gas mileage. The key to selecting the tow vehicle is to figure out what your requirements are and to know exactly how it is equipped so you can determine the correct tow rating. Tow ratings are extremely important, but there are other weight issues concerning the tow vehicle that are often overlooked.

There's a very simple formula we can use to determine how much we can safely tow, but first there are a couple of weight ratings you need to understand:

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR): is the maximum permissible weight of the vehicle or trailer when fully loaded for travel. This includes the unloaded vehicle weight, all fluids, cargo, optional equipment and accessories. The tow vehicle and trailer each have a GVWR.

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR): is the maximum permissible combined weight of the tow vehicle and the trailer together when they are fully loaded for travel.

Unloaded Vehicle Weight or Dry Weight (UVW) or (DW): is the actual weight of the tow vehicle or trailer as built at the factory. The UVW does not include passengers, cargo, dealer installed options, personal belongings, water, or LP gas.

Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW): is not a rating, it is the actual weight of the tow vehicle when it is fully loaded including passengers, cargo, a full fuel tank and accessories like the hitch.

Gross Trailer Weight (GTW): is not a rating, it is the actual weight of the fully loaded trailer including all options, cargo, personal belongings, food, water and LP gas.

Armed with this information, let's look at a typical buying scenario. We know for a fact that our tow vehicle is rated to tow 8,800 pounds and it has a GCWR of 15,000 pounds. When I account for the cargo in the truck, three additional passengers, and after market accessories my actual tow rating is 8,040 pounds. Keep in mind that any weight you load in or on the truck reduces the tow rating by that amount.

Now let's look at our towing formula: Tow Vehicle GCWR - Tow Vehicle GVW = the Maximum GVWR for a trailer we can purchase.

The GCWR for my truck is 15,000 pounds. Now I subtract the GVW of my truck when it's fully loaded for travel and this equals the maximum GVWR of a trailer I can consider purchasing. The only way to determine the actual GVW of the tow vehicle is to take the fully loaded vehicle to a set of scales and have it weighed. The GVWR can be found on the Safety Compliance Certification label, located on the exterior left front of the trailer.

So let's say we found a trailer with a floor plan we like that has a GVWR of 8,000 lbs. The UVW or Dry Weight of the trailer is 6,350 pounds. Keep in mind we have to add any dealer installed options, cargo loaded in the trailer, any water we add to the fresh water holding tank and LP gas. This gives us a gross trailer weight of 7,075 pounds. Ask the RV dealer to show you the weight label that is inside the trailer for accurate trailer weights. Unloaded Vehicle Weights found in a manufacturer's brochure are normally for the base model of the trailer and do not include options the dealer may have ordered on the unit. In the majority of cases there is a significant difference between the GVWR and the UVW of the trailer.

Let's see if this will work: Remember our GCWR is 15,000 pounds. When we subtract the weight of our fully loaded tow vehicle and our fully loaded trailer we still have 1,093 pounds to spare before we exceed our GCWR.

This method will almost always works, unless you have the tow vehicle and the trailer loaded to their maximum GVWR, which when added together can exceed the GCWR. This is more likely to happen when the tow vehicle is a light duty vehicle like a mini van, small SUV or light duty truck. In this situation you simply add the GVWR of the tow vehicle to the GVWR of the trailer then select a tow vehicle that is rated for the combined weight.

If your original calculations are based on estimates you need to verify all weights by going to a set of scales and properly weighing the vehicle and trailer. Keep in mind this is a crash course and there are many more weight factors and considerations we did not even touch on. Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR), tires, tire inflation, proper hitch work, trailer brakes and much more need to be addressed. I cover a lot of this information in my “Trailer Towing, Weights, Hitch Work & Backing” DVD. I hope this helped to clear up some of the issues concerning matching your tow vehicle and trailer to ensure a safe towing system.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.

I love the freedom of the open road. There is nothing like exploring the back roads in your RV. You can go where you want and when you want, in your house on wheels, and because of this, often times you find yourself in a new destination everyday. Something that many RVers do not take into consideration with this freedom to roam is the weather conditions where you are traveling too or spending the night. RV's are great, but they are not safe in severe weather like lightning and thunderstorms with high winds, tornadoes and hurricanes.

When you are at home, you usually know what the weather forecast is from the newspaper, radio or television. When you travel three or four hundred miles a day in your RV the weather conditions can change several times. Many times when you stop for the night somewhere all you want to do is get some rest. The weather is the last thing on your mind. The problem with this is severe weather can occur without much warning, and if you are caught in it, it can be disastrous.

So, what do we do, what's the plan? Plan is the key word here. RVers need to have an emergency plan in case of a severe storm. For starters, have you ever heard of the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Weather Radio or NWR? The NOAA Weather Radio is a nationwide network of radio stations that broadcast continuous weather information directly from a nearby National Weather Service Office. They broadcast National Weather Service warnings, watches, forecasts and other hazard information 24 hours a day. Alerts inform people if they need to take some type of action in order to protect themselves, such as "seeking shelter" or "to evacuate an area immediately!” What does this mean to RVers? It means if you owned a battery operated weather radio receiver you could monitor weather conditions no matter where you are!

Every RVer should own a weather radio receiver. Receivers are available at most retail stores that sell electronic equipment. Prices can range anywhere from $25 to $200 depending on the quality of the receiver and its features. We actually have two weather radio receivers. We leave one in the RV at all times. When we arrive at our destination, we set it in the "weather" position and tune in to the NOAA station with the strongest signal in that area. When an all-hazard emergency or weather alert is broadcast by NOAA, the receiver sounds an audible alert to notify us that a message is pending. We also have a hand held model that we can use when we are away from the campground. It is perfect for hiking, riding 4-wheelers, boating and many other uses. It is well worth the investment to know what type of weather to expect when traveling or camping in your RV. When we are at home, we use the weather radio receiver in the house. For more information on the NOAA Weather Radio visit their website at www.nws.noaa.gov/

OK, the first step to our emergency weather plan is to get a weather radio receiver if you don't already have one, and to always monitor it when you use your RV. The next step is to develop an emergency evacuation plan, to use in the event of severe weather. When you arrive at a campground, ask at the check-in desk about an emergency plan in case of a severe storm such as a tornado, or a thunderstorm with high winds. If they don't have a plan you need to make your own. Locate a structure that is safer than your RV, like a bathhouse or the campground office. Always stay on the lowest level possible and away from doors and windows. Brief everybody with you on the emergency plan. Explain to children how to respond to different disasters and the dangers of severe weather, fires, and other emergencies. Instruct children on emergency exits. Instruct them on how and when to call 911. Make sure everybody knows exactly what his or her job is in case of severe weather. Monitor the weather radio for emergency information. Emergency weather watches and warnings are for counties and towns, so always check a map for the county or town where you are staying.

Have an emergency supply kit made up and easily accessible. The kit should contain flashlights, batteries, rain ponchos, a portable weather radio, first aid kit, non- perishable packaged or canned food and a manual can opener, blankets, prescription and non-prescription drugs, pet supplies, bottled water and any special items for infants, elderly or disabled family members.

To learn more about how to prepare for and react to different types of severe weather take a moment to visit http://www.nws.noaa.gov/.

Remember, RVs are not safe in severe weather! This includes severe thunderstorms with high winds, tornadoes and hurricanes. Learn about different types of weather hazards, get a weather radio if you don't have one, create a plan with your family, practice and maintain the plan. Now go RVing and have fun.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.

If there is a way to get in your RV, water will find it. Water leaks on an RV can cause extensive damage and can be extremely costly to repair. When I worked at an RV dealership I saw the damaging effects that water can cause to an RV time and time again. I learned the lesson the hard way. I appraised a unit that was being traded in and didn't identify the extensive water damage, which resulted in a thousand dollars worth of repairs. Hindsight is 20/20 and I quickly learned how to inspect for, and identify potential water damage on RVs.

I mention inspecting your RV for water damage in my Winterizing and Storing Your RV video and in my RV Checklists e-book My recommendation is that you inspect for potential water leaks twice a year at a minimum, once in the fall and again in the spring.

Recently we went camping over the weekend and it rained the entire time. Needless to say we spent quite a bit of the trip inside our motor home. To my surprise we noticed water dripping from around the edge of the dome over the shower. I was surprised because I inspected all of the seams on the roof earlier that spring. I am aware that everything flexes and moves on the RV when you are traveling, and that this leak could have started after my inspection, but this was not the case.

When we returned home from our trip I went up on the roof, bent over, and checked the sealant around the shower dome the same way I checked it during my bi-annual inspections. Everything looked fine so I went back in the shower to look again, wondering to myself if it was condensation that caused the drops of water. I removed the trim ring from around the dome and the entire area was saturated with water. Now, as I stood there scratching my head, I was really confused. I made another trip up the ladder unto the roof. Upon closer examination, ON MY HANDS AND KNEES, I discovered two small splits through the sealant around the dome.

This is when I realized that I wasn't really, truly inspecting for leaks, I was just going through the motions. I also realized how fortunate I was to be in the RV when it was actually leaking. If I hadn't caught it when I did I would be the one paying those costly repair bills.

Every seam on your RV and anywhere the manufacturer cut a hole in your RV has the potential to allow water in. To protect your investment and your wallet take the time to REALLY inspect all of these seams and sealants. Water damage on an RV is similar to progressive damage to a tire. The outside of the tire looks fine, but the internal damage over a long period of time causes the tire to fail without any warning. The outside of your RV looks fine but the internal damage caused by water over a long period of time can result in the entire roof, floor or wall rotting away without you knowing it. Here are a few things to look for during your inspections.

Always keep safety on your mind when you are working on the roof of your RV. You can be seriously injured from a fall! One reader suggested that you use 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood, 2 feet by 4 feet, to move around on and spread your weight out over the roof rafters.  

• To stop a leak before it starts thoroughly inspect all roof and body seams. Consult with your RV dealer for sealants compatible with different types of materials.

• Look for any discoloration and feel for any soft spots on the ceiling around roof vents, air conditioners, TV antennas, plumbing vents, and any other openings that were cut in the roof.

• Look for any discoloration or wrinkles in the wallpaper, and feel for any soft spots on the walls around all windows, doors, vents, slide outs, or any other openings that were cut in the side walls.

• Identify the location of items like the water heater, furnace, outside shower, potable water fill and city water inlet on the outside of the RV and then access those areas from the inside of the RV and look for any indications of water damage around these openings.

• Open all overhead cabinets and look in the top corner where the walls meet the ceiling for any discoloration or feel for any soft spots. This would indicate a leak at the seam where the sidewall and the roof attach.

• Check in all outside storage compartments for any indications of water leaks or water damage.

• Check for any soft spots on the roof itself especially around the roof seams at the front and rear of the RV. Thoroughly inspect all sealants on the roof around every opening.

• Some Class C motor homes are notorious for leaks in the cab over bed area. Look for any signs of discoloration and feel for soft spots. Reach under the mattress and feel for water.

• Look and feel on the outside of the RV for any signs of delaminating. Delaminating is caused by water getting between the exterior fiberglass and the sidewall. When this happens the exterior fiberglass separates from the sidewall of the RV. You can stand at the front or rear of the RV and look down the side for any noticeable ripples or what looks like a bubble. You can also press on the sidewalls. If you feel the exterior fiberglass move it is delaminating. Often times delaminating starts around where an opening that was made in the sidewall.

Don't just inspect your RV for water damage; REALLY inspect your RV for water damage. If you do this on a regular basis you can locate and repair the source of any water damage before it has a chance to do a great deal of damage. I think I'll start checking our motor home more than twice a year.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.

It doesn't matter whether you own a pop-up or a diesel pusher, when you made the decision to purchase an RV it was a major investment. Like any other major investment there are certain things we must do to protect our investment so we can enjoy it. Your RV needs to be maintained just like your house and automobiles need to be maintained. There are three basic types of maintenance for your RV, preventive maintenance, scheduled maintenance and emergency maintenance.

Check out our “RV Care and Maintennace” e-book http://www.rveducation101.com/ebooks.htm?siteID=0

• Preventive Maintenance is maintenance you perform on your RV before a problem exists. These checks are designed to prevent or identify potential problems that could lead to mechanical breakdown, malfunction or failure of a component or system on your RV. Preventive maintenance consists of cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, adjusting and servicing your RV.

• Scheduled Maintenance or routine maintenance is performed in intervals normally based on time, mileage or hours. Scheduled maintenance is designed to keep your RV in top operating condition and prevent untimely breakdowns and repairs. It is absolutely essential that you read your owner's manual and warranty information in regards to who is responsible for what when it comes to scheduled maintenance. Scheduled maintenance that is required by the manufacturer and not performed can void your warranty.

• Emergency Maintenance - Maintenance and / or repairs required when you least expect it due to component, system or mechanical failure.

The lack of preventive maintenance and / or scheduled maintenance will eventually result in emergency maintenance. If you don't check the air pressure in your tires (preventive maintenance) the under-inflated tire over heats and prematurely fails resulting in emergency maintenance.

Preventive maintenance is really nothing more than common sense maintenance. If you're going to take a thousand mile trip in your automobile common sense tells us at a minimum to check all of the fluid levels, tires and lights. Too often we assume that all of the fluid levels are fine, that there are no leaks and when you look at the tires they look like they are inflated properly. In many cases this is why we have an unexpected break down, because we failed to do a little preventive maintenance.

Now consider an RV. It's larger and heavier than your automobile and its not just the chassis you need to be concerned about, it's your entire house sitting on top of the chassis. The bottom line is an RV requires more preventive maintenance than an automobile. The good news is the average RV owner can perform the required preventive maintenance and prevent untimely break downs and costly repairs (emergency maintenance).

Before you take your next trip put some time aside to perform some preventive maintenance. It could be the difference between a safe and enjoyable trip and a costly disastrous one. How does the old saying go, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! To help make the chore of checking out your RV a little easier I am including a short checklist. Start your preventive maintenance program with these checks and over time add some of your own checks and without even realizing it you will be identifying and preventing potential problems before they exist.

Vehicle Chassis Checklist:

Check all lights.

Coach Checklist:

Now that you performed your preventive maintenance checks go and have a good time and enjoy the fact that there is much less chance of encountering the need for any emergency maintenance during your trip.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.