Product Knowledge

My friends at KOA Kompass wrote me and asked, what is one of the most frequently asked questions I get from RVers? I didn't hesitate long before replying it is about towing and backing. As a matter of fact, I get asked this so much that I wrote an e-book on the topic Trailer Towing: What to Know Before You Tow and we filmed a video Trailer Towing, Weights, Hitch Work and Backing

I thought that it might be helpful to take an excerpt from my e-book that would provide some information on backing a trailer. I had to leave several sections out because this would be entirely too long for an article.

Backing Up, the Big Dilemma

If you're going to tow a trailer the day will come when you have to back it up. From the time we are children we're programmed to do everything forward. You learn to crawl, walk and run going forwards not backwards. For the most part when we drive a vehicle we are going forward, and when we did learn to back a vehicle it was not that difficult. It's like if some one tells you to turn left or turn right, you know if you turn left the vehicle will go to the left. Even when you're backing the vehicle, if you want it to back to the left you turn the steering wheel to the left. It's almost natural; you look over your shoulder, turn the steering wheel and back the direction you want to go. Not so with a trailer. First of all you can't look over your shoulder, all you will see is the front of the trailer. Second of all, if you turn the steering wheel to the left the trailer is going to go to the right. The secret to backing a trailer is to learn a technique that does not require you to go against your natural instincts. When you're not confused about turning in the opposite direction you want to go it is much easier to back a trailer.

I want to offer a couple of different options on how to back a trailer and I feel confident that you'll find one that will work for you. But, regardless of how good the method is for learning to back a trailer, the only way you will become proficient at it is to practice, practice and practice some more. It's like learning to ride a bicycle, almost everybody falls a few times but with practice you quickly get proficient at it.

Can I Learn to Back a Trailer?

I am convinced that anybody can learn to back a trailer. I will admit that some people just have a knack for it. It just seems to be easy. But for other people it is much more difficult. I feel that it is all about learning a technique that works for you. Take for example a natural born artist. They can paint a beautiful picture as though it were nothing. But somebody without that natural ability is embarrassed to even try. Now what if we went to the store and bought a paint by the numbers painting. If you follow the directions you end up with a beautiful painting. You simply found a technique to accomplish something you didn't think you could do.

Backing Techniques

I personally have two techniques that I prefer. I call them assisted and unassisted. The assisted technique should be used whenever possible. This is the technique I used when I was the sales manager at an RV dealership. I have total and complete faith in this technique when it is followed properly. If you ever attended an RV show you know what I mean. You are allocated a certain amount of space and in an effort to show as many units as possible you had to back the trailers in within inches of the walls, campers and other obstacles. I have organized many RV shows and never so much as scratched a bumper.

Assisted Technique

The assisted technique implies what it says, that you have a spotter to assist you. It is quite simple. The golden rule is for the driver to do exactly what the spotter tells you to. You may want to discuss who will drive and who will spot, because with this technique the spotter is responsible for putting the trailer where you want it. The first step is to establish hand signals that you both understand and agree on. Once this is done do a thorough inspection of the area you are backing into. It is important that you check the area immediately behind the trailer because for this technique to work effectively the spotter has to stand in front of the tow vehicle. Now you place an object (small orange traffic cones work well) on both sides of the site where you want the back of the trailer to stop at. The spotter will stand in front of the tow vehicle, in clear view of the driver, and can slowly walk from right to left checking blind spots and watching for the back of the trailer to reach the cones. You need to stop occasionally and look behind the trailer. Small children and pets can wander behind the trailer without you seeing them. The reason this technique is so effective is because neither the spotter nor the driver has to think about doing the opposite when backing the trailer. The first step is for the driver to roll the windows down and turn the radio off. The driver leaves their hand on the top of the steering wheel like you're accustomed to and because the spotter is in front of the vehicle they simply tell the driver to turn the steering wheel in the direction they want the back of the trailer to go. So, if the spotter wants the back of the trailer to go to the right they tell the driver to turn to the right. The driver slowly turns and backs in the direction the spotter tells them to. Nobody has to think about it the driver just does what the spotter says to do. The key to driving is slowly turning and backing in the direction the spotter tells you to. The two biggest mistakes made are turning the steering wheel too much and holding it in the turned position to long. If either of these mistakes occurs the result is that it will require greater correction to get straightened out, and if you continue to back while holding the wheel in that position too long the tow vehicle and trailer can jackknife. It will require some practice. The spotter will have to learn that once the trailer is into the turn its time to go the opposite direction to bring the tow vehicle and trailer back in line. Do not be concerned if you have to stop, pull forward and start again. This will happen more than once during the early stages. Try it, and with practice I guarantee that before you know it you'll be backing like pros.

Unassisted Technique

The assisted technique is the preferred method. I do not recommend backing a trailer without a spotter. Young children and pets can wander behind the trailer without you seeing them. However, you need to be prepared in the event that you have to back a trailer without assistance. If the backing maneuver is more than just backing in a straight line, and a turn is required, try to always back from the left side (drivers side). Backing from the left will allow you to see where the trailer is going. Backing from the right side (passenger's side) is your blind side and it is nearly impossible to tell where the trailer is going.

Earlier we discussed that the reason it's difficult to back a trailer is because it is the opposite of everything we have been taught. Fortunately there is a way to back a trailer unassisted without having to work against our natural instincts. This may sound a bit confusing at first, but if you think about it, it makes sense and the good thing is it works.

It is extremely important that you inspect the area behind and around where you will be backing. Look for any obstacles that may be in the way to include low hanging tree branches, picnic tables and utility hook-ups. You need to stop occasionally and inspect the area immediately behind the trailer. If children are present in the area ask somebody to watch behind the trailer. It is a good idea to place some orange traffic cones along the path you want the trailer to follow when you're backing. If you decide it's not necessary to mark a path you do need to place some type of object in your view where you want the back of the trailer to stop at.

In the assisted method we kept our hand on the top of the steering wheel and did exactly what the spotter told us to do. In the unassisted method we place our hand on the bottom of the steering wheel in the center. Now if you want the back of the trailer to go to your left you slowly turn the wheel to your left as you back. To go to your right slowly turn the wheel to your right as you back. It's that easy. By placing your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel you don't have to confuse yourself with turning it in the opposite direction. Remember the two biggest mistakes are turning the steering wheel too much and holding it in the turned position too long. If either of these mistakes happen it may be necessary to pull forward and start over. It may also be necessary to stop, get out and check your progress, especially if you're backing from the right. Take your trailer to a large open area where you can practice and before long you'll be showing off at the campground.

I hope this information is helpful to those of you that have experienced problems backing a trailer.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.

I recently received an email from someone that was considering purchasing an RV. After explaining their interest in RVing there was one short question. “Are RV's dangerous to own and operate?” After giving this some thought I realized that this one short question covered a very large spectrum. There was no quick or easy response to this question. I responded by saying that in most cases it's not the RV that is dangerous, but the individual that is operating the RV that is dangerous. I gave some examples of unsafe acts that I have witnessed like carrying a full spare LP gas bottle inside the RV, sleeping in the RV with the generator running and never weighing the RV or checking the inflation pressure in the tires.

I told them when they begin their search for their RV the first thing to verify is that the RV manufacturer is a member of the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA). If they are, the RV will have an oval shaped RVIA seal displayed on the exterior, usually by the entrance door. This seal means that the RV manufacturer is in compliance with more than 500 safety requirements regarding electrical, plumbing, heating, and fire and life safety. These safety requirements are established under the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) A119.2 Standard for Recreation Vehicles. This should put to rest any concerns you may have about the RV itself being safe when it is manufactured.

I explained that the next step is to educate yourself on the systems of an RV and what is required to operate the RV safely and properly. If you're going to be towing a three or four ton travel trailer, or driving a six ton plus motor home you need to understand the importance of proper hitch work, weights and driving techniques. I also explained that anytime you are dealing with petroleum products like LP gas and gasoline generators there is cause for concern, but if handled properly there is nothing to worry about. A good place to start is with our RV Safety DVD

In no particular order, I offered them the following advice concerning RV safety.

Leaves are falling from the trees, and the grass is dormant. The petunias are dying and the pansies are in full bloom. Days are shorter and nights are colder. Winter is upon us. To me, winter has its good and bad points. It's good that I don't have to cut the grass for several months. It's bad that I have to close the pool for several months. It's good that I don't have to run the air conditioning, but bad that I have to turn the furnace on.

For the RVer in all of us, winter is a time for making decisions. Do we park the RV and prepare it for the harsh winter months ahead, or do we pack it up and flee due south? Many of these decisions are made for us, and don't require our input. What I mean is, if you already live in a warm climate then winter is not a big issue. If you can take time away from work and travel south in the winter the decision is made for you. If you have managed to save lots of money during your working years, and can afford to travel all year the decision is made. If the children are gone, and you still have money left, the decision is made. Unfortunately, for some of us, we don't live in a warm climate, we can't afford to take any more time off of work, we haven't saved a lot of money, and the kids are still here spending what money we did manage to put aside. So without much input from me, the decision to park the RV and prepare it for winter has already been made.

If the same decision was made for you, whether it's due to where you live, your job, how much discretional money you have, or where your children currently reside, not all is lost. The big decision has already been made. We're going to park the RV for the winter. Parking the RV for winter will require some preventive measures so it will be ready to use next spring. You'll also be glad you did it when you don't have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of winter. Now the question is how do you prepare it for winter, and who will be doing it? If you're like me and you enjoy performing the routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars, the “who” part is answered. As for the “how” part, I have taken a checklist from my “Checklists for RVers” e-book that I feel is the easiest and most effective way to winterize and store your RV http://www.rveducation101.com/ebooks.htm?siteID=0

If you would like to actually see how to winterize your RV check out my “Winterizing and Storing your RV” DVD, Video Details

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

• Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do).
• A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
• A wand to clean out holding tanks.
• A water pump converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

• If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass before starting.
• Drain the fresh water holding tank.
• Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves.
• Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug. CAUTION (never drain the water heater when it is hot or under pressure).
• Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower.
• Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.
• Recap all drains and close all faucets.
• By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.
• Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze.
• Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required.
• Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower.
• Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
• Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.
• Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a couple of cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.
• If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.
• Make sure all faucets are closed.
• Consult your owner manuals for winterizing icemakers and washing machines.
• The unit is winterized.

Now that the unit is winterized we will want to prepare the RV for storage. The storage procedures are divided into two sections, the coach storage and the chassis storage. Follow the steps below that apply: Part 1 (Coach Storage)

• Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.
• If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.
• Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off. If you're storing a Pop Up angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run off.
• Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground.
• If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.
• Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
• Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
• Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.
• On a Pop Up make absolutely sure the fabric is clean and dry before storing. This is a good time to check for tears, and repair the fabric.
• Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.
• Service all locks with a graphite spray lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40.
• Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the LP gas supply valve off. If you're storing a Pop Up or travel trailer make sure the LP gas regulator is covered.
• Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.
• Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud dabbers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.
• Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.
• Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV.
• Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.
• Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.
• Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.
• Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.
• Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.
• Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
• Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.
• The use of Maxx Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.

Storing Your RV Part 2 (Chassis Storage)

• Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free.
• Charge all batteries to a full charge. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery.
• Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.
• If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.
• If you put the unit in long-term storage remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.
• During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.
• If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE
• Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
• If the unit is not in long-term storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the generator with a minimum ½ rated load. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.
• Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.
• Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every 2 to 3 years.
• Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.
• Perform a full chassis lubrication prior to storage.

This completes the steps that are required to protect your investment when it's time to park it for the winter.

Happy camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.

When I was young, my friends and I would go tent camping at our favorite spot in the rolling hills of Pennsylvania. It is where I learned the art of fly-fishing for trout, trapping muskrats and hunting whitetail deer. To this day just the thought of those camping trips bring back wonderful childhood memories. Not only are the memories good, the lessons I learned have lasted a lifetime.

My one friend's father would go with us on many of our camping excursions. When he was a young man he spent several years working for a logging company. We would load up in his old 4X4 truck armed with chainsaws, axes, wedges and logging chains and head out in search of fallen trees and logs that would later be used to build our spectacular bonfires. Each and every time we went out to do this he made us inspect the logging chains and cables before we would skid the logs out of the woods behind the truck. He told us to inspect where the hooks attached to the chains and inspect the chains length for the weakest link. I was shocked at the number of times we discovered a link that was cracked or broken. He explained what the results could be if a chain or cable broke under tension.

I have applied the weakest link lesson many times since then. During my time in the Army I was in charge of some very large maintenance operations. We would go on countless recovery missions to upright vehicles that rolled over, or to tow a sixty-ton M1 tank back to the maintenance facility. We would inspect and re-inspect the riggings, looking for the weakest link, before attempting to recover these vehicles. Since retiring from the military my passion has been with RV's and once again I realized the importance of the weakest link lesson.

Every weight rating on an RV is based on the weakest link in the system. The tires on your RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can't begin to tell you how many times I've heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.

What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?

• Overloading the tires
• Under inflated tires
• Ozone and UV rays
• Age of the tires
• Rotating tires

What can be done to prevent premature tire failure?

• Overloading the tires on your RV is probably the number one leading cause of tire failure. Poor weight distribution and taking advantage of all of the storage space offered on today's RV's result in tire overloads. The only way to find out is to have the fully loaded vehicle weighed on platform scales. Load the vehicle with everything you plan to take on a trip including passengers, cargo, fuel, full fresh water and propane tanks. If you tow something behind the RV take it to the scales with you. The problem is that it is quite possible to weigh the RV and not exceed the GVWR, GAWR or GCWR, but you could be exceeding the tire ratings. This is why you MUST weigh each axle end separately to determine if tire ratings are exceeded and if the loaded weight is properly distributed.

• Under inflated tires run a close second to overloading as one of the leading causes of tire failure. The load rating for a tire is only accurate if the tire is properly inflated. Under inflated tires cause extreme heat build up that leads to tire failure. The appearance of the tire looks normal but the internal damage is not visible and can fail at any time without warning. Tires can lose up to two pounds of air pressure per month. If you don't check your tires for three or four months they could be seriously under inflated. Ideally you should check tire inflation, and adjust if required, everyday that you move or drive your RV. If you can't get into the habit of doing it on a daily basis you need to make it a point to check all tires weekly at a minimum when you're traveling. You always want to check the tires when they are cold, meaning that you don't drive or move the RV before checking inflation. Invest is an accurate inflation pressure gauge. Check all tires and adjust pressure according to the manufacturer's recommendation. Do no exceed the maximum pressure ratings found on the tires sidewall. Never check inflation pressure when the tires are hot, you will get a higher-pressure reading and if you let some air out they will be under inflated when they are cold. If you have dual wheels you will want to add extension hoses to the valve stems to make the job of checking tire inflation easier. A word of caution, if you add extension hoses you should replace the rubber valve stems with all steel valve stems. The added weight of the extension hoses can cause rubber stems to leak air resulting in under inflation.

• Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your tires. It is not uncommon to see RV tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate. UV rays from the sun make it happen quicker. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. Inspect your tires for checking or cracks in the sidewalls. If you notice any damage have them inspected by a professional. There are basically two ways to protect your tires from these elements. Keep them covered with covers that will block out the sunlight when not in use, or for long-term storage remove the tires and store them in a cool dry place away from the sunlight. I also recommend that you place something like a piece of wood between the ground and the tires. Be sure that whatever you use is larger then the footprint of the tire.

• The age of your tires is another factor that contributes to tire failure. I learned this lesson the hard way. I bought an early model Jeep CJ7 to tow behind our motor home. After completely restoring the vehicle we were ready to try it out. The tires that were on it looked to be in excellent condition. There were no signs of damage from the sun and the tread looked as though they were used very little. We towed the Jeep from North Carolina to Florida and from there to Colorado and back to North Carolina with no problems. Shortly after that we towed it to Pennsylvania. A couple hundred miles into the trip a front tire blew out damaging the inner fender, shock absorber and an area below the door. I replaced the tire with the spare and within another 100 miles the spare blew out resulting in more damage. After getting a new tire and going back to pick the Jeep up along side the Interstate we took it to a tire store to have the remainder of the tires replaced. The technician came in and explained that the tires were nine years old and even though they looked to be in good shape they could not handle the stress put on them. He also explained that all tires manufactured in the United States have a DOT number. The DOT number on my tires was on the inside sidewalls. The last three or four digits in the DOT number identify how old the tire is. Older tires used three digits. The first two identify the week of the year that the tire was built and the third identifies the year. Newer tires use four digits. Again the first two digits are the week of the year and the last two identify the year i.e. 1008 is the 10^th week of the year and 08 is the year 2008. If you question the age of your tires, especially on a used RV, and you can't find the DOT number have them inspected by a qualified tire center.

• Have you ever owned a vehicle and neglected to have the tires rotated and one day you suddenly notice that the front tires are wore out but the rear tires look fine? I'm sure that this has happened to most of us until we learned the valuable and expensive lesson of not rotating our tires. If one tire shows signs of wear faster than another tire it may be a signal that something other than normal tire wear is happening and you should have it checked. But if it's just normal tire wear you can even out the wear and extend the life of your tires by having the tires rotated on a regular basis. Talk to your tire dealer about proper tire rotation intervals.

Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you're out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

Happy Camping,

Mark

Copyright 2000 - 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101. Reprinted with permission.