Product Knowledge

RV Electricity 101

I receive a lot of questions and concerns about the RV electrical system. Most people ask me if I can explain the RV electrical system in simple to understand terms. The electrical system in your RV can seem complex and confusing until you have a basic understanding of how it works. Your RV actually has three separate electrical systems. It has a 12-volt DC automotive system, a 12-volt DC coach system, and a 120 volt AC coach system. We are primarily concerned with the 12-volt DC and 120 volt AC coach systems. The RV electrical system is also covered in our RV Education 101 training videos and DVDs.

http://www.rveducation101.com/trainingvideos.htm?siteID=0

12 Volt DC or direct current is electricity supplied by the RV batteries. DC electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12 volt DC electricity is stored in the RV batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that operate off of 12 Volts. 120 Volt AC or alternating current is the same electricity used in your household. AC electricity reverses or alternates direction 60 times per second, or 60 hertz. 120 volt AC electricity supplies power to all of the 120 volt appliances and electronic equipment in your RV.

The majority of campgrounds you go to will provide you with an external 120 volt electrical source to plug into. Your RV has a heavy-duty power cord that is normally about 20 to 25 feet long. Depending on the type of RV you have, or purchase, it will either be a 30 Amp or 50 Amp electrical system. When you plug into the proper campground electrical source it will supply power throughout your RV. You must have a 120 Volt AC power source if you are going to use the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the 120 Volt electrical outlets.

For the most part everything else in the RV works off of 12-volt DC power. When you're plugged in at the campground the 120 volt AC current is converted to 12-volt DC current, by the RV's converter, for the items in the RV that work off of 12-volts. Some of these items are the overhead lights, the furnace fan, the fan over the range, the vent fan in the bathroom, the water pump, LP gas leak detector, stereo, and the refrigerator when it's in the LP gas mode. If you look at the RV's power distribution panel you will see circuit breakers like you have in your house for the 120-volt AC side, and automotive style blade fuses for the 12-volt DC side.

If you're not plugged into an external power source you can still use the 12-volt DC system if you have a 12-volt deep cycle battery or batteries on your unit. As long as the battery or batteries are charged you can use everything in the RV except the microwave, roof air conditioner, the refrigerator in the electric mode and the electrical outlets.

If you have a motor home, or if you're going to purchase a motor home, it will have a battery for the 12 volt automotive system and an auxiliary battery or batteries for the 12 volt coach system. The coach battery is charged whenever the motor home is running; the generator is running, or when it's plugged into an external electrical source.

For a thorough understanding of how your batteries work, how to maintain your batteries and how to test and store your batteries check out my Deep Cycle Battery Care and Maintenance for RVs and Boats

Motor homes also provide an additional source of 120 volt AC power with an onboard power generator. This unique feature offers you the convenience of 120-volt AC power whenever you need it, making the unit fully self-contained. AC power generators are rated in kilowatts. One Kilowatt equals 1000 watts so a 4KW generator would be capable of producing 4000 watts. The fuel supply for the generator comes directly from the motor home fuel tank. The system is designed so that when the fuel tank gets to a 1/4 tank the generator will stop running so it doesn't use all of the fuel in the motor home. Some motor homes have an automatic switch over from an external power supply to the generator. Other motor homes require you to plug the motor home power cord into a generator receptacle on the motor home to use the generator.

I have always been an advocate of monitoring the AC line voltage coming into your RV. Campground electricity can fluctuate a great deal. If you don't know what the voltage is coming into your RV, you risk damaging thousands of dollars worth of electrical appliances and electronic equipment.

Every RVer should invest in some type of digital voltmeter that plugs directly into a 120 volt outlet in your RV. There are several types available and they are inexpensive compared to the repair costs for damaged electrical equipment and appliances. I recommend one that can test campground polarity, measure AC line voltage and if you have a generator measure AC frequency.

You should always test the campground wiring for improperly wired circuits before you plug your RV in. Once this is done plug the voltmeter into any 120-volt outlet in the RV where it will be easy to monitor the AC voltage during your camping trip. By monitoring the AC voltage throughout your trip you can protect thousands of dollars worth of electrical equipment and appliances in your RV. If AC voltage drops below 105-volts or goes above 130-volts you should turn electronic equipment and appliances off until the power is restored.

When you use your generator set the digital meter so it will measure or count the AC frequency output of the generator. Frequency is the number of times that electricity alternates per second. U.S. appliances are designed to operate at 60 cycles per second, or 60 hertz. When you use your generator the governor in the generator must hold the speed constant at, or close to 60 hertz from no load on the generator to a full load. Depending on the load placed on the generator, AC voltage can range from 105 to 135 volts and the frequency can range from 58 to 63 hertz. The meter will let you know when the generator is not operating within the proper ranges and you can have it checked out and repaired before any damage occurs.

If it's possible you should try to avoid using an extension cord when making electrical connections at the campground. The gauges of the wire used in standard household extension cords are not suitable for RV electrical hook-ups. Eventually you will be put in a situation where you will need to use an extension cord. It's a good idea to purchase an RV extension cord that is compatible to the electrical system of your RV. If you do purchase an extension cord somewhere else it should be 10-guage wire and always use as short of an extension cord as possible.

There are RV electrical adapters that will go from your RV type plug and size down to household type outlets, and adapters that go from household type outlets to all types of campground RV connections. It's nice to have these adapters on hand when you need them, but you must exercise caution and use common sense when you use them. If you have a 30-amp system and you have to use a 50-amp service use your RV electrical system exactly the same way you do when you're plugged into a 30-amp service. In other words don't try to run anymore than you normally would.

On the other hand if your RV is a 30-amp or 50-amp system and you use an adapter to plug the RV into a 15 or 20-amp outlet you severely limit what you can operate in the RV. In this situation you should only use the appliances or electronic equipment that are absolutely necessary. The air conditioner alone can draw 15 to 16 Amps when the compressor engages. If you try to use the air conditioner and have other appliances or electronic equipment on you risk damaging those items. If you place too much of a demand on these electrical adapters, or use them for extended periods of time they can overheat and melt resulting in damage to the RV power cord or the electrical system.

Even when you're plugged in to the proper service for your RV you still need to be selective about what you are using. If you try to use too much the RV will let you know by tripping a breaker in the distribution box and hopefully no harm will be done. The RV also has what is called a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter or GFCI. This is designed to protect you in the event that you plug something into a receptacle and there is moisture or water present. The GFCI will trip automatically. Several outlets can be wired on the GFCI circuit, so if you ever plug something into an outlet and it doesn't work check the GFCI to see if it needs to be reset.

There are a couple of simple formulas that may be helpful in calculating how much electricity you can safely use in your RV. Check the data plate on the appliance or electronic equipment you are using and apply the formula that works.

Watts divided by Volts = Amps

Amps times Volts = Watts

Happy Camping,

Mark

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.http://www.rveducation101.com/

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Trailer Sway 101

Yaw, more commonly known as sway in the RV industry, is a bad word for trailer owners. The definition of yaw or sway is a side-to-side movement. Nothing will ruin the way you feel about camping faster than the first time you experience trailer sway.

You have tent camped for years and now you decide it's time to move up to a pop-up. You go to your local dealership and find a pop-up with the perfect floor plan for you and your family. The sales person knows that it will be close to the maximum weight that your vehicle can tow. He really needs a sale because things have been slow. Rather than risk losing the sale he decides not to explain the added expense of the proper hitch work to safely tow your new trailer.

You're all packed up for a weekend getaway. You made all of your pre-trip checks and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your tow vehicle and head out on a new venture. Everything is fine when you leave the house. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a transfer truck going twenty miles over the speed limit is passing you as if you're sitting still. The pop-up is pulled into the draft created by the truck. In an attempt to correct this totally unexpected event you over steer and the trailer begins to go the opposite direction. Not really sure what to do you hit the brakes and turn the steering wheel to the left, then to the right. Now, that one-ton trailer behind your sport utility vehicle is veering sharply from side to side and begins to affect what little control you have over the vehicle. The results are catastrophic.

Ok, since this is just an article, let's start over and fix this before you even realize there is a potential problem. You purchased your pop-up from a reputable local RV dealership. At the risk of losing the sale your sales person explains that you will require some specialized hitch work to pull your new trailer safely. You are a bit skeptical, feeling like they just want more of your money. Besides, your father never needed any of this stuff. He just hooked the trailer unto the ball and went.

You decide to give the sales person the benefit of doubt and listen for a minute. He shows you in his book that your tow vehicle is rated to tow a maximum of 3,500 pounds. Then he explains what you must factor in to that tow rating. It includes the weight of your new camper, any after market accessories, like the roof mounted air conditioner and battery the dealership is going to install, all of the cargo and personal belongings that you load in the trailer and in the tow vehicle, and the weight of the passengers in the vehicle. Now all of the sudden the sales person has your undivided attention. You had no idea that all of this had to be considered.

He shows you the weight label on your new trailer. The unloaded vehicle weight (UVW) is 2,100 pounds. The air conditioner weighs 100 pounds and the deep cycle battery weighs 50 pounds. To be safe he estimates that you will carry about 300 pounds of cargo, and then adds another 300 pounds for your wife and two children. You are amazed how fast things add up. Now you have 2,850 pounds instead of the 2100 pounds that you thought it was. It isn't over yet. Your sales person starts to explain that every state has different requirements on how much a trailer can weigh before it requires trailer brakes. In your state the weight is 3,000 lbs., but your dealership has brakes installed on any trailer they order that weighs over 2,000 pounds. He explains that even though your vehicle is rated to tow 3,500 pounds the brakes on the vehicle were designed to safely stop the vehicles weight, not an additional ton and a half being pulled behind it. He takes you to the parts department and shows you a brake controller and explains that this is what activates the trailer brakes and the dealership will install it when they do the wiring for the trailer lights. You like the features that he explained about the brake controller. The fact that you can manually adjust the amount of braking action so that when you hit the brake pedal the tow vehicle and the trailer work together to stop the weight in a reasonable amount of time. What you really like is the part he explained about the manual override lever that activates the trailer brakes without using the vehicle brakes. He said if you're on a steep grade and you don't want to prematurely wear out the vehicle brakes you slowly slide the lever and the trailer brakes will slow you down. But what really sold you on it was when he explained that if the trailer starts to sway you could gently move the lever, activating the trailer brakes, to help straighten the trailer out. He went on to explain that trailer sway is one of the biggest potential problems that you can encounter while towing a trailer. He points out some of the factors that contribute to trailer sway.

First and foremost poor trailer design contributes to trailer sway. When there is too much weight behind the trailers axles causing the tongue weight to be less than 10% of the trailers weight it has a natural tendency to sway.
Incorrect tire inflation
Improper weight distribution hitch adjustments
No sway control on the trailer
Crosswinds
A transfer truck passing from the rear of the trailer
Descending inclines
Towing speeds
Tow vehicle not properly matched for the trailer
Improper loading, overloading and poor weight distribution

He took the time to explain that for the trailer to pull properly the manufacturer recommends that the tongue weight resting on the ball mount should be 10 to 15% of the total trailer weight. He said if it is more than 15% they have what is called a weight distribution hitch that takes the additional tongue weight and distributes it to the axles on the tow vehicle and the trailer where it should be, and if it is less than 10% when you load your cargo you distribute it to add some additional weight on the tongue. He looked up the pop-up you were buying in the brochure and the tongue weight was 305 pounds. With the air conditioner installed and your cargo loaded you would be between the 10 to 15% range. He explained that a weight distribution hitch was more commonly used with heavier trailers and in some cases with pop-ups depending on the tow vehicle, but in this case it would not be required.

The next thing he asked was if your vehicle had a receiver. You reply, do you mean a hitch? He explains that the part that is bolted to the vehicle is called a receiver, and he shows you a chart that has several different classes of receivers depending on the amount of weight you will be towing. The class II receiver was rated for 3,500 lb. gross trailer weight and 300 lb. max tongue weight. For a small difference in price he recommended a class III receiver rated for 5,000 lb. gross trailer weight and 500 lb. max tongue weight since your trailers tongue weight exceeded 300 lbs.

With that done he said let me show you the one component that our dealership strongly recommends to anyone purchasing a pop-up. He walked over and picked up a part from the shelf. This is called a friction sway control. We mount one end of it to the ball mount and the other end to the tongue on the camper. You adjust the amount of friction by turning the lever clockwise for more friction and counter clockwise for less friction. He explained that you turn it in 1/8” increments until you get it adjusted where you feel comfortable. This will not totally eliminate sway, but once the forces of sway are in motion it will dampen the sway and help you control it when you're towing your camper.

Well, he said, that about does it. For less than 10% of the price of the pop-up you can get all of the hitch work done and ensure that your family is safe when you go on a trip. At this point you're convinced that the sales person has your best interest in mind and was not just trying to make more money.

You're all packed up for the first weekend getaway with your new pop-up. You make all of the pre-trip checks that the dealership explained to you and you're ready to go. You load the most precious cargo you have, your family, into your vehicle and head out on a new venture. You take the on ramp to the interstate. You're cruising at the speed limit enjoying the music on the radio. Suddenly out of nowhere a transfer truck going twenty miles over the speed limit passes you as if I you're sitting still. You feel a slight movement behind you. It was just enough to remind you that you're pulling the pop-up. You look at you're watch and tell the family that you should be at the campground in a couple of hours.

Knowing how to react when a trailer begins to sway can be the difference between your safety and disaster. To learn more about controlling trailer sway check out my “Trailer Towing, Weights, Hitch Work & Backing DVD” and e-book. Video Details

Happy Camping,

Mark

Trailer Sway 101

First and foremost poor trailer design contributes to trailer sway. When there is too much weight behind the trailers axles causing the tongue weight to be less than 10% of the trailers weight it has a natural tendency to sway.
Incorrect tire inflation
Improper weight distribution hitch adjustments
No sway control on the trailer
Crosswinds
A transfer truck passing from the rear of the trailer
Descending inclines
Towing speeds
Tow vehicle not properly matched for the trailer
Improper loading, overloading and poor weight distribution

Happy Camping,

Mark

Fresh Water 101

At the end of your camping season you drain the water system, winterize the RV and put it in storage for the winter. One problem with this is that on most RV's when you drain the fresh water holding tank there is still some water left in the tank. Let's say you do manage to drain all of the water out of the tank. There is still moisture in the water system. Just imagine what can grow in that moist tank and in the water lines while it sits for three or four months. I'd rather not think about it.

This is the water tank that you drink from and the water you use to wash dishes and take showers with. We cannot assume that it will stay safe and fresh like the water system in our home. Contaminated water is extremely dangerous. We not only have to deal with a water system that hasn't been used for sometime, but when we travel in the RV we hook our water system up to a different water source every time we stop to spend the night some where. We hook up to city water, well water, and eventually contaminated water. You've probably heard people say don't drink the water if you go to Mexico. Well that can be true anywhere. We stopped at a campground one night just to get a few hours of sleep and I didn't bother to use the water filter. The water coming out of the faucet was cloudy and had small particles suspended in it.

There are no guarantees that any water is completely safe for us to drink, but if we take certain precautions we can keep our RV water system safe to use. So where do we start? First of all you should always use a white non-toxic drinking hose. Hoses not labeled safe for drinking can contribute to lead and other dangerous chemicals getting in the water. Use the white non-toxic hose for hooking up to the water source and take along a green or black garden hose for all other uses like flushing out holding tanks or washing the RV. When you're not using the drinking hose roll it up and connect the two ends together. This will keep dirt and other debris from getting in the hose. The next time you use the hose, run some water through it before hooking it up to the RV.

Next you need to filter the water going into the RV with a high quality filtration system. Water filters do not purify the water but they can control and remove bacteria, lead and other dangerous contaminants found in drinking water. In our “Easy RV Upgrades” video we demonstrate installing and using Hydrolife water filters. Video Details

Hydrolife filters use a filter media called KDF. It uses electro chemical oxidation reduction to neutralize harmful chemicals and bacteria. It also uses carbon to reduce pesticides, fungicides and other organic contaminates. You basically have two choices on how to filter your RV water system. You can install an inline water filter directly to the water line that you drink from, or you can filter all of the water going into the RV. I prefer to filter all of the water going into the RV. This helps to protect the entire water system and even filters the shower water to help prevent any skin irritation.

Possibly the most important step you can take is to keep the fresh water system sanitized.

This is an excerpt from my “Checklists for RVers” e-book.

http://www.rveducation101.com/ebooks.htm?siteID=0

At a minimum you should sanitize the system every spring when you take the RV out of storage and any time you notice stale water or an odor. It's really quite simple to do. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug is usually located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. CAUTION: NEVER drain the water heater when it's hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. Now, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all of the drains.

What we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. Now take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank almost completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets. If it's possible drive the RV or pull the trailer so the water can move around to assist in cleaning the entire tank. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. Drain the entire system again and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system.

If you follow these simple steps you can rest assured that the fresh water system in your RV truly is fresh.

Happy Camping,

Mark

RV Storage 101

The snow has arrived in many parts of the country and before you know it Christmas will be here and then another New Year. What does this mean to RVers? Well, besides shoveling sidewalks and last minute Christmas shopping it means parking the RV until next spring.

Most of us have already winterized our RVers so we won't have any problems with it next spring, but did you really prepare your RV for several months of storage? Many of us don't think about it, but the storing portion is just as important as winterizing the water system. Actually winterizing your RV encompasses much more than protecting the water system from freezing temperatures. It's just that we're under the impression that winterizing means to put that pink non-toxic antifreeze through our water system and everything will be okay.

When I produced our winterizing video I included an entire section on properly storing the RV. Video Details It's important that we consider things like batteries, ventilation, the condition of sealants, mice, and fuel system protection just to mention a few. This is an excerpt taken from my “Checklists for RVers” e-book.

http://www.rveducation101.com/ebooks.htm?siteID=0

So, let's look at some things we should do in addition to winterizing our RV water system. The storage procedures are divided into two sections, the coach storage and the chassis storage. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV:

Part 1 (Coach Storage)

Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.

f you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.

Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off. If you

're storing a Pop Up angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run off.

Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground. Make sure whatever you use is larger than the actual foot print of the tire.

If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.

Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.

Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior

thoroughly.

Make sure the awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.

On a Pop Up make absolutely sure the fabric is clean and dry before storing. This is a good time to check for tears, and repair the fabric.

Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings.

Water can get in the smallest openings so really inspect all sealants. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.

Service all locks with a graphite spray lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40.

Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the

main LP gas supply valve off. If you're storing a Pop Up or travel trailer make sure the LP gas regulator is covered.

Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.

Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud daubers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.

Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.

Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV.

Many RVers recommend using dryer sheets like Bounce to keep mice out.

Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.

Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.

Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.

Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.

lean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.

Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.

Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.

The use of Max

x Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.

Storing Your RV Part 2 (Chassis Storage)

To start with if you put your RV in storage it's a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. When you're removing the batteries always remember to remove the negative terminal first. Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose their charge. Check the state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below 80% state of charge.

Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free. Check the electrolyte level and add distilled water if necessary.

Charge all batteries as required. A

discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery.

Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.

If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.

If you put the unit in long-term storage

; remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.

During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.

If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer

's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE

Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer

's directions.

If the unit is not in long-term storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the generator at 3/4 rated load. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.

Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.

Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every 2 to 3 years.

Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.

Perform

full chassis lubrication prior to storage.

Now your RV is truly winterized and hopefully you won't experience any problems when you perform your spring maintenance checks next year.

Happy Camping,

Mark

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