How-Tos

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
Awnings are a great feature to have on your RV. There are several different types of RV awnings and they serve different purposes. There are window and door awnings that provide shade and keep rain away from your RV windows or entry door. There are slide-out awnings that protect the slide-out roof from debris and water. And there are patio awnings that provide us with shade when we want to sit and enjoy the outdoors. The awnings on your RV will provide years of reliable trouble free operation, if you take the time to do a little preventive maintenance and cleaning.

The fabric used on awnings is made from vinyl or acrylic. Some awnings have an aluminum or vinyl wrap-around weather guard that protects the awning fabric when it's in the travel position. When you open the awning for the first time each year, or if it has been stored for a while, you will need to inspect the awning fabric for any signs of mildew or stains. Vinyl awnings will mildew. If the awning fabric is fairly clean, normal cleaning can be accomplished with a soft brush and mild soap and water. Do not use oil based or abrasive cleaners. Clean and thoroughly rinse both sides of the awning.

For more difficult stains, or mildew, there are after market commercial cleaners made just for awning fabrics. One method that seems to work well is to spray the inside and outside of the awning fabric with the appropriate cleaner, then roll it up and let it sit for several minutes. This distributes the cleaner over the entire surface of the awning fabric and allows the cleaner time to work. Open the awning and thoroughly rinse both sides of the fabric. It may be necessary to scrub stubborn stains with a brush before rinsing.

Note: Carefully follow all awning and cleaner manufacturer directions.

You can clean the awning hardware with the same cleaner you use to wash the RV. Now you can inspect the awning fabric for any tears or excessive wear. Talk to your RV dealer about what materials to use to repair or patch the awning fabric. Do not store the awning when the fabric is wet. Allow enough time for it to dry completely, on both sides, before storing the awning. While the awning is out, inspect the awning hardware. The bottom awning brackets support most of the load from the awning. Check the lag screws in the awning brackets for secure mounting. Inspect the arm pivot holes for any enlarged holes or broken rivets in the handles. Check for a warped roller tube. If the roller tube is warped it will be noticeable when you roll the awning out. Inspect the awning end caps for secure mounting and broken rivets. Make sure the awning rail is securely mounted to the side of the RV. Have any damaged or broken parts repaired before using the awning.

Caution: Never attempt to remove the awning end caps. Spring tension can result in serious injury.

In addition to cleaning and inspecting your awning there are a few things to keep in mind when using the awning. Always lower one end of the awning to allow for water runoff. The weight from water pooling on the awning fabric can cause extensive and costly damage. Any wind gusts over 20 miles per hour can also cause extensive damage to the awning and to the RV. Never leave the awning out unattended. If everyone is leaving the campsite, store the awning in the travel position. When you go to bed, store the awning. Even when you are at the campsite, you should use awning tie downs to prevent any sudden damage caused by high wind gusts or a sudden storm. You have the option to position the awning arms straight down and stake them to the ground, but you will get better support if they're attached to the bottom awning brackets on the side of the RV. Remember, it is much easier to prevent damage to your awning than it is to repair it.

Awning Tip: Check with your RV insurance provider to make sure your RV awning is covered in the event of any damage. Some insurance companies require separate insurance coverage on the awning.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
Did you know that there are close to 20,000 reported RV fires each year? A large percentage of these fires are transmission related fires on motor homes. Automatic transmission fluid leaking from the transmission can ignite, and quickly spread if it contacts any portion of the exhaust system. Before traveling in your RV inspect the underside for any signs of fluid leaking. Have any potential leaks checked out and repaired immediately.

Over 25% of RV fires are caused by shorts in the 12-volt electrical system. Not only do you need a fire extinguisher, but you need to inspect it before each trip to make sure it is charged. Look to see if the arrow is pointing in the green area in the sight gauge. If it reads empty or needs charging replace it or have it recharged immediately. If it's a dry powder type fire extinguisher the arrow pointing in the green doesn't always guarantee that it will work. Every month you should turn dry powder extinguishers upside down, tap on the bottom of the extinguisher and shake it so the powder that settled on the bottom is released.

There are four different types, or classes of fire extinguishers, A,B, C, and D, and each type is for a specific type of fire.

Class A extinguishers are used for fires caused by ordinary combustibles like paper and wood.

Class B extinguishers are used for fires caused by flammable liquids like grease, gasoline and oil.

Class C extinguishers are used for fires caused by electrical equipment.

Class D extinguishers are used for fires on flammable metals and often they are specific for the type of metal it is.

Some fire extinguishers have multi class ratings like, AB, BC or ABC which means one fire extinguisher can be used to put out different types of fires. The National Fire Protection Agency rules that RV's must have a “BC” rated fire extinguisher near the exit. “BC” rated fire extinguishers are used for flammable liquids and gasses like grease, gasoline and oil, and for electrical fires.Many RV fires that happen inside an RV are type A fires caused by common combustibles like paper. This is why, in my opinion you need more than one fire extinguisher for your RV.

In addition to keeping a BC or ABC type fire extinguisher inside the RV, it's a good idea to keep a BC type fire extinguisher in an outside storage compartment where it is easily accessible. If you tow a trailer keep a BC or ABC type fire extinguisher in the tow vehicle too.

Having these fire extinguishers available is a great idea but they are worthless if you and the other people traveling in the RV don't know what type of fire they are used for and how to properly use them. Get everybody who will be in the RV together, and make sure they understand the different types of fire extinguishers you have and where they are located in the event of an emergency.

The old style labeling for fire extinguishers, to designate what type of fire they are used for was with the letter A, B,C or D

Newer style labeling for fire extinguishers includes a picture designating the type of fire it is used for.

If it can be used for multiple types of fires it will show the pictures for the types of fires it can be used for and it will have a red diagonal line through the picture of what it cannot be used for.

Once everybody understands the different types of fire extinguishers the next step is to teach everybody how to properly use a fire extinguisher. There are many different types and sizes of fire extinguishers, but for the most part they all work the same way. Teach everybody to remember the word PASS. This is an easy way to remember how to use a fire extinguisher, especially during an emergency. PASS stands for Pull, Aim, Squeeze and Sweep.

Pull the pin located at the top of the fire extinguisher.

Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire.

Squeeze the handle, standing approximately 8 feet away from the fire. Release the handle if you want it to stop.

Sweep the nozzle back and forth at the base of the fire until it is out. Observe the fire to make sure it does not re-ignite.

Last but certainly not least you need to have an emergency escape plan. The National Fire Protection agency requires that RV's have emergency escape windows. Make sure everybody knows where the escape window is located and how to use it. It's a good idea to practice using it so you are familiar with how to get out of the RV in case of an emergency. You should have an escape plan for the front of the RV and the rear of the RV.

Most important, do not risk your personal safety,or the safety of others, attempting to put a fire out. The first step is to get everybodyout of the RV and away from the fire safely. Have somebody call 911 for help, and if you can't extinguish the fire within the first minute or so let the professionals put it out.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
It's easy to let your guard down sometimes and to forget that not everybody you encounter is as honest and law abiding as you might be. This is an excerpt from my Checklists for RVers E-book to help keep your guard up and travel safe in your RV.

For one minute, try to think the way a criminal would think. If you were at a rest stop looking for your next target or victim, what would you look for? Let's pretend for a moment that you were going to target a vehicle. Which would be more appealing, a car whose owner stopped for a quick bathroom break or an expensive looking Class A motor home, whose owners are out walking their dogs? I don't have the mind of a criminal but this is an easy choice. That expensive looking RV probably has expensive contents inside like, jewelry, cameras, and a laptop computer.

Plan your trip, travel safe and enjoy your RV experiences. Remember, getting there is half the fun!

• Okay, we have come to the conclusion that we, the RVers, are the prime target for the criminal mind, so what can we do to protect ourselves? That's what this RV security checklist is for; to give you some ideas on how to protect yourself and you're personal belongings when you're traveling in your RV.
• Don't stay overnight at a rest stop. Rest stops attract criminals. If you stop at a rest stop it should only be for a short break and then back on the road. Lock the RV and take turns using the facilities, always leaving someone in or close to the RV. Always be on the look out for anything or anyone that looks suspicious. Keep your cell phone handy in case you need it and don't open the door for anybody, unless you know who it is.
• Rest stops aren't the only place you need to be concerned about. Every time you stop to refuel there are certain precautions you need to take. It's easy to be vulnerable to a thief at a gas station or a truck stop. I have a bad habit of leaving my wallet on the console of our Class C motor home. The door isn't locked and your spouse is taking advantage of the time to walk the dogs. This is how quick it can happen. Get in the habit of locking the doors whenever you or someone else is not physically in the RV.
• Most robberies occur at night and most travel related robberies occur at rest stops, gas stations, convenience stores and ATM machines. Try to schedule most of your stops during daylight hours, and whenever you stop be aware of your surroundings. If something doesn't look right leave.
• Wal-Mart or other parking lots where you might stop to get a few hours of sleep can present security problems too. You should always park in a well lit area and the entry door of the RV should be facing where most of the activity is. A thief prefers to work where it is dark and where it is least likely to draw any attention. Close your curtains or blinds so it's not possible for someone to look inside. Don't open the door for anybody unless you know who it is. If it's a security guard ask for identification before you open the door.
• As much as we would like to believe that campgrounds are 100% safe and secure don't let your guard down. You don't need to be paranoid, just use some common sense. Don't leave expensive equipment lying around unsecured. Vehicle tow bars, hitches, bicycles and other items need to be under lock and key.
• Keep any valuables inside the RV secured and out of sight. It's a good idea to purchase a small fire proof safe to store valuables and important paperwork in. The safe might protect your valuables from the hazards of a fire but it will still need to be stored in a secure, out of the way place,inside the RV.
• Always lock the RV when you're not physically at the campsite. Do not store valuable equipment in outside storage compartments. Believe it or not,a vast majority of RV's use the same exact key as yours for outside storage compartments. If you store valuables, like golf clubs, fishing gear or tools in the outside compartments you may want to have the locks changed.
• Before you leave on a trip make sure your Emergency Roadside Service Plan is current. In the unfortunate event that you breakdown on the road try to pull off in as safe a place as possible and call for help immediately. Stay with the RV until help arrives.
• It's unfortunate that we live in a day and age where we need to take these added measures to protect ourselves. I don't want you to feel like everybody you meet during your travels is a thief or has bad intentions. Just use common sense and be aware of what is going on around you.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101

The snow has arrived in many parts of the country and before you know it Christmas will be here and then another New Year. What does this mean to RVers? Well, besides shoveling sidewalks and last minute Christmas shopping it means parking the RV until next spring.

Most of us have already winterized our RVers so we won't have any problems with it next spring, but did you really prepare your RV for several months of storage? Many of us don't think about it, but the storing portion is just as important as winterizing the water system. Actually winterizing your RV encompasses much more than protecting the water system from freezing temperatures. It's just that we're under the impression that winterizing means to put that pink non-toxic antifreeze through our water system and everything will be okay.

When I produced our winterizing video I included an entire section on properly storing the RV. Video Details It's important that we consider things like batteries, ventilation, the condition of sealants, mice, and fuel system protection just to mention a few. This is an excerpt taken from my “Checklists for RVers” e-book.

So, let's look at some things we should do in addition to winterizing our RV water system. The storage procedures are divided into two sections, the coach storage and the chassis storage. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV:

Part 1 (Coach Storage)

• Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.
• If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.
• Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off. If you 're storing a Pop Up angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run off.
• Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground. Make sure whatever you use is larger than the actual foot print of the tire.
• If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.
• Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
• Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
• Make sure the Awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.
• On a Pop Up make absolutely sure the fabric is clean and dry before storing. This is a good time to check for tears, and repair the fabric.
• Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings. Water can get in the smallest openings so really inspect all sealants. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.
• Service all locks with a graphite spray lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40.
• Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the main LP gas supply valve off. If you're storing a Pop Up or travel trailer make sure the LP gas regulator is covered.
• Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.
• Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud daubers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.
• Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.
• Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV. Many RVers recommend using dryer sheets like Bounce to keep mice out.
• Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.
• Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.
• Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.
• Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.
• lean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.
• Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
• Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.
• The use of Max
  x Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.

Storing Your RV Part 2 (Chassis Storage)

To start with if you put your RV in storage it's a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. When you're removing the batteries always remember to remove the negative terminal first. Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose their charge. Check the state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below 80% state of charge.

• Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free. Check the electrolyte level and add distilled water if necessary.
• Charge all batteries as required. A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery.
• Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.
• If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.
• If you put the unit in long-term storage ; remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.
• During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.
• If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE
• Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer 's directions.
• If the unit is not in long-term storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the generator at 3/4 rated load. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.
• Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.
• Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every 2 to 3 years.
• Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.
• Perform
  full chassis lubrication prior to storage.

Now your RV is truly winterized and hopefully you won't experience any problems when you perform your spring maintenance checks next year.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
At the end of your camping season you drain the water system, winterize the RV and put it in storage for the winter. One problem with this is that on most RV's when you drain the fresh water holding tank there is still some water left in the tank. Let's say you do manage to drain all of the water out of the tank. There is still moisture in the water system. Just imagine what can grow in that moist tank and in the water lines while it sits for three or four months. I'd rather not think about it.

This is the water tank that you drink from and the water you use to wash dishes and take showers with. We cannot assume that it will stay safe and fresh like the water system in our home. Contaminated water is extremely dangerous. We not only have to deal with a water system that hasn't been used for sometime, but when we travel in the RV we hook our water system up to a different water source every time we stop to spend the night some where. We hook up to city water, well water, and eventually contaminated water. You've probably heard people say don't drink the water if you go to Mexico. Well that can be true anywhere. We stopped at a campground one night just to get a few hours of sleep and I didn't bother to use the water filter. The water coming out of the faucet was cloudy and had small particles suspended in it.

There are no guarantees that any water is completely safe for us to drink, but if we take certain precautions we can keep our RV water system safe to use. So where do we start? First of all you should always use a white non-toxic drinking hose. Hoses not labeled safe for drinking can contribute to lead and other dangerous chemicals getting in the water. Use the white non-toxic hose for hooking up to the water source and take along a green or black garden hose for all other uses like flushing out holding tanks or washing the RV. When you're not using the drinking hose roll it up and connect the two ends together. This will keep dirt and other debris from getting in the hose. The next time you use the hose, run some water through it before hooking it up to the RV.

Next you need to filter the water going into the RV with a high quality filtration system. Water filters do not purify the water but they can control and remove bacteria, lead and other dangerous contaminants found in drinking water. In our “Easy RV Upgrades” video we demonstrate installing and using Hydrolife water filters. Video Details

Hydrolife filters use a filter media called KDF. It uses electro chemical oxidation reduction to neutralize harmful chemicals and bacteria. It also uses carbon to reduce pesticides, fungicides and other organic contaminates. You basically have two choices on how to filter your RV water system. You can install an inline water filter directly to the water line that you drink from, or you can filter all of the water going into the RV. I prefer to filter all of the water going into the RV. This helps to protect the entire water system and even filters the shower water to help prevent any skin irritation.

Possibly the most important step you can take is to keep the fresh water system sanitized.

At a minimum you should sanitize the system every spring when you take the RV out of storage and any time you notice stale water or an odor. It's really quite simple to do. You can start by draining the water heater. Go to the outside compartment where the water heater is located. The drain plug is usually located in the bottom left hand corner. Remove the plug and open the pressure relief valve on top of the water heater to assist in draining. CAUTION:NEVER drain the water heater when it's hot or under pressure. Next you need to locate the low point water line drains. It may take a while to find them, but I assure you they are there. There will be one for the hot and one for the cold water lines. This is the lowest point in the water system. Open these and let the water drain out. Now, find the drain for the fresh water holding tank and drain all of the water from it. At this point you can turn the water pump on for a moment to force any remaining water out. Do not let the pump continue to run once the water stops draining. Close all of the drains.

What we have accomplished so far was to evacuate the majority of water from the system. Now take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank almost completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets. If it's possible drive the RV or pull the trailer so the water can move around to assist in cleaning the entire tank. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. Drain the entire system again and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system. Once this is done it is safe to use your water system.

If you follow these simple steps you can rest assured that the fresh water system in your RV truly is fresh.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
I received an email from an RVer questioning the need for a supplemental brake system on the vehicle they tow behind their RV. I responded to the email by stating that in most cases it's the law that requires brakes on the towed vehicle or trailer, but the most important reason is for your safety and the safety of others.

Most U.S. States and Canadian Provinces have their own laws on the requirement for brakes on a towed trailer. The word trailer also applies to avehicle being towed behind a motor home. These laws are normally based on the amount of weight being towed. Not only is it illegal to exceed any weight limits without brakes, but your insurance company may not cover you in the event of an accident involving a trailer with no braking system. Again, the most important reason is for your safety and the safety of others. For a complete list of braking laws for the U.S. and Canada go to here.

The brakes on a tow vehicle or motor home are designed by the vehicle manufacturer to stop the weight of that particular vehicle, not the additional weight being towed behind it. This additional weight adds a substantial increase to the distance required to stop safely.

Travel trailers and 5th wheels come equipped with electric brakes and RV dealers educate the RV consumer on the requirements for adding an electronic brake control to the tow vehicle. Some Pop-ups are ordered with brakes and some without. Again, this is often times based on the braking laws for the state you live in. My advice is if you're going to purchase a pop-up get one that has brakes.

The real culprit for disregarding braking laws is a motor home towing a vehicle behind it. Most people assume that because of the size of the motor home there is no need for a supplemental brake system on the towed vehicle and many RV dealers fail to communicate the requirement for a supplemental braking system.

Tests performed on a flat stretch of dry pavement have shown that an unhitched motor home traveling at a speed of 50 mph needed an average of 132 feet of braking distance to reach a complete stop. Under the same speed and surface conditions, but with the added weight of a small car in tow, the stopping distance of the motor home expands to an average of 209 feet. A significant distance! In an identical test performed using the Roadmaster BrakeMaster™, the coach and towed car averaged a stopping distance of 137 feet. That's a mere 5 feet more than the unhitched stopping average.

I for one was guilty of towing a vehicle without a braking system for quite some time. A close call, while driving through a major city during rush hour, suddenly educated me on how important it is. Another thing that surprises people is how much the vehicle they're towing actually weighs. Take your towed vehicle to a set of scales and have it weighed. Make sure it has everything in it that will be in it when you are towing it. After you weigh it double check to make sure the Receiver on the motor home is rated to tow that amount of weight and that you aren't exceeding any of the motor home weight ratings like the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). The GCWR is the maximum permissible weight of the fully loaded motor home and the fully loaded towed vehicle combined. Most RV chassis manufacturers base their GCWR on the assumption that a supplemental brake system is being used.

There are many different types of supplemental braking systems available on the market today. These types include surge, hydraulic, air and vacuum. Some are simple and some are more complex. Regardless of the brake system that best suits your individual needs the important thing is that you have one. There are many reasons to have a braking system on your towed vehicle.

1. It's the law
2. It can void your vehicle warranty
3. It can void your insurance
4. It will reduce wear and tear on RV brakes and other components
5. Liability

But, most importantly it SAFELY reduces the stopping distance and helps to protect you, your loved ones and the safety of others.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
Leaves are falling from the trees, and the grass is dormant. The petunias are dying and the pansies are in full bloom. Days are shorter and nights are colder. Winter is upon us. To me, winter has its good and bad points. It's good that I don't have to cut the grass for several months. It's bad that I have to close the pool for several months. It's good that I don't have to run the air conditioning, but bad that I have to turn the furnace on.

For the RVer in all of us, winter is a time for making decisions. Do we park the RV and prepare it for the harsh winter months ahead, or do we pack it up and flee due south? Many of these decisions are made for us, and don't require our input. What I mean is, if you already live in a warm climate then winter is not a big issue. If you can take time away from work and travel south in the winter the decision is made for you. If you have managed to save lots of money during your working years, and can afford to travel all year the decision is made. If the children are gone, and you still have money left, the decision is made. Unfortunately, for some of us, we don't live in a warm climate, we can't afford to take any more time off of work, we haven't saved a lot of money, and the kids are still here spending what money we did manage to put aside. So without much input from me, the decision to park the RV and prepare it for winter has already been made.

If the same decision was made for you, whether it's due to where you live, your job, how much discretional money you have, or where your children currently reside, not all is lost. The big decision has already been made. We're going to park the RV for the winter. Parking the RV for winter will require some preventive measures so it will be ready to use next spring. You'll also be glad you did it when you don't have costly repair bills due to the damaging results of winter. Now the question is how do you prepare it for winter, and who will be doing it? If you're like me and you enjoy performing the routine maintenance on your RV, not to mention saving a few dollars, the “who” part is answered. As for the “how” part, I have taken a checklist from my “Checklists for RVers” e-book that I feel is the easiest and most effective way to winterize and store your RV

If you would like to actually see how to winterize your RV check out my “Winterizing and Storing your RV” DVD, Video Details

Before you get started there are a few items you will need to have. These items can be found in most RV parts stores:

• Non-toxic RV antifreeze (the amount depends on the layout and length of your plumbing lines. 2 to 3 gallons will normally do).
• A water heater by-pass kit, if not already installed.
• A wand to clean out holding tanks tanks.
• A water pump Converter kit, or tubing to connect to the inlet side of the water pump.
• Basic hand tools to remove drain plugs.

Now we can winterize the RV water system to protect it from freezing. Be sure to read your owners manuals for unit specific winterizing guidelines. Follow the steps below that apply to your RV.

• If you have any inline water filters remove and bypass before starting.
• Drain the fresh water holding tank.
• Drain and flush the gray and black holding tanks. Clean the black tank with a wand. Lubricate the termination valves.
• Drain the water heater. Open the pressure relief valve and remove the drain plug. CAUTION (never drain the water heater when it is hot or under pressure).
• Open all hot and cold faucets; don't forget the toilet valve and outside shower.
• Locate and open low point drain lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.
• Recap all drains and close all faucets.
• By-pass the water heater. If you do not have a by-pass kit installed the water heater will fill up with antifreeze before it goes through the water lines, wasting six gallons of antifreeze.
• Install a water pump converter kit, or disconnect the inlet side of the pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank) and connect tubing from the pump into a gallon of RV antifreeze.
• Turn the water pump on and pressurize the system. Starting with the closest faucet slowly open the hot and then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Replace antifreeze jug as required.
• Repeat on all faucets from the closest to farthest away. Don't forget the outside shower.
• Flush the toilet until antifreeze appears.
• Turn the water pump off and open a faucet to release the pressure. Go to the city water inlet. Remove the small screen over the inlet and push in on the valve with a small screwdriver until you see antifreeze. Replace the screen.
• Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain. Pour a couple of cups in the toilet and flush into the holding tank.
• If your water heater has an electric heating element turn it off. This will protect the element if the unit is plugged in while being stored.
• Make sure all faucets are closed.
• Consult your owner manuals for winterizing icemakers and washing machines.
• The unit is winterized.

Now that the unit is winterized we will want to prepare the RV for storage. The storage procedures are divided into two sections, the coach storage and the chassis storage. Follow the steps below that apply: Part 1 (Coach Storage)

• Store your unit under a covered area if possible. If not, avoid parking under trees or in areas where grass and weeds will grow.
• If you choose to buy a cover for the RV, be sure it is made of a breathable material. This will help in preventing mold and mildew.
• Chock the wheels front and rear. Leave the parking brake off. If you're storing a Pop Up angle the tongue downward to assist in snow and water run off.
• Inflate the tires to the manufacturer's recommended max cold pressure. Cover the tires to protect them from the harmful ultraviolet rays. Place something between the tires and the ground.
• If you do not remove the tires for long-term storage periodically move the vehicle to prevent flat spots on the tires.
• Close all of the window blinds to avoid sun exposure to the carpet, drapes and upholstery.
• Wash the exterior of the unit and clean the interior thoroughly.
• Make sure the Awning fabric is clean and dry before storing.
• On a Pop Up make absolutely sure the fabric is clean and dry before storing. This is a good time to check for tears, and repair the fabric.
• Inspect all roof seams, body seams and window sealant for cracks and openings. Consult your dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.
• Service all locks with a graphite spray lubricant. Lubricate all hinges and moving parts with WD 40.
• Turn all LP gas appliances off. Turn the LP gas supply valve off. If you're storing a Pop Up or travel trailer make sure the LP gas regulator is covered.
• Remove the fuse for the LP gas leak detector while the unit is in storage. This will prevent the batteries from discharging. Don't forget to replace it next spring.
• Insects are attracted to the odorant that is added to LP gas. To prevent mud dabbers and wasps from building nests in and around your gas appliances, cover the refrigerator vent, the furnace vent and the water heater vent.
• Inspect the underside of the unit thoroughly. Look for anywhere that mice or other rodents can get it, and seal as necessary.
• Strategically place mouse and ant traps in and around the unit. Avoid using mouse poison inside the RV.
• Remove all perishables and anything that can freeze.
• Leave doors, drawers and cabinets open.
• Remove all consumables that would attract mice and other rodents.
• Defrost the freezer compartment and clean the refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator doors open and place some baking soda inside to absorb odors.
• Clean the air conditioner filters, and cover the air conditioner.
• Turn off the main breaker and unplug all appliances.
• Remove dry cell batteries in clocks, flashlights and other items.
• The use of Maxx Air products will provide the airflow and ventilation required during storage while keeping the elements out.

Storing Your RV Part 2 (Chassis Storage)

• Check and fill the water levels in all batteries that are not maintenance free.
• Charge all batteries to a full charge. A discharged battery will freeze much quicker than a fully charged battery.
• Remove and clean all battery terminals and posts. Spray the terminals with terminal dressing to protect against corrosion.
• If you plan to start the unit while in storage, and to periodically plug the unit into shore power leave the batteries in the unit. Plugging it into shore power once a month for about eight hours will keep the coach batteries topped off.
• If you put the unit in long-term storage remove and store the batteries where they will not freeze. In either case keep the batteries charged.
• During short-term storage, start the unit monthly and run it with the dash air on for at least 30 minutes.
• If you don't plan on starting the unit, or won't be able to start it, buy some fogging oil from a marine supply store to protect the cylinder walls. When the unit is parked where it will be stored, spray the fogging oil into the engine intake downstream from the air filter with the engine at an idle. Complete the same steps on the generator. Follow the manufacturer's directions. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT IN A DIESEL ENGINE
• Fill the fuel tank prior to storage and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the engine and the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the system. Follow the manufacturer's directions.
• If the unit is not in long-term storage exercise the generator at least 2 hours each month. Run the generator with a minimum ½ rated load. Consult your generator set owners manual for rated loads.
• Change the oil and oil filter on the engine and the generator prior to storage. Acids accumulate in used oil and can corrode engine bearings.
• Check the engine radiator for the proper concentration of antifreeze. Consult your owner's manual for the correct type of engine antifreeze. Drain, flush and refill the system every 2 to 3 years.
• Drain the windshield washer reservoir or add the appropriate antifreeze solution to prevent it from freezing.
• Perform a full chassis lubrication prior to storage.

This completes the steps that are required to protect your investment when it's time to park it for the winter.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
My friends at KOA Kompass wrote me and asked, what is one of the most frequently asked questions I get from RVers? I didn't hesitate long before replying it is about towing and backing. As a matter of fact, I get asked this so much that I wrote an e-book on the topic Trailer Towing: What to Know Before You Tow and we filmed a video Trailer Towing, Weights, Hitch Work and Backing

I thought that it might be helpful to take an excerpt from my e-book that would provide some information on backing a trailer. I had to leave several sections out because this would be entirely too long for an article.

Backing Up, the Big Dilemma

If you're going to tow a trailer the day will come when you have to back it up. From the time we are children we're programmed to do everything forward. You learn to crawl, walk and run going forwards not backwards. For the most part when we drive a vehicle we are going forward, and when we did learn to back a vehicle it was not that difficult. It's like if some one tells you to turn left or turn right, you know if you turn left the vehicle will go to the left. Even when you're backing the vehicle, if you want it to back to the left you turn the steering wheel to the left. It's almost natural; you look over your shoulder, turn the steering wheel and back the direction you want to go. Not so with a trailer. First of all you can't look over your shoulder, all you will see is the front of the trailer. Second of all, if you turn the steering wheel to the left the trailer is going to go to the right. The secret to backing a trailer is to learn a technique that does not require you to go against your natural instincts. When you're not confused about turning in the opposite direction you want to go it is much easier to back a trailer.

I want to offer a couple of different options on how to back a trailer and I feel confident that you'll find one that will work for you. But, regardless of how good the method is for learning to back a trailer, the only way you will become proficient at it is to practice, practice and practice some more. It's like learning to ride a bicycle, almost everybody falls a few times but with practice you quickly get proficient at it.

Can I Learn to Back a Trailer?

I am convinced that anybody can learn to back a trailer. I will admit that some people just have a knack for it. It just seems to be easy. But for other people it is much more difficult. I feel that it is all about learning a technique that works for you. Take for example a natural born artist. They can paint a beautiful picture as though it were nothing. But somebody without that natural ability is embarrassed to even try. Now what if we went to the store and bought a paint by the numbers painting. If you follow the directions you end up with a beautiful painting. You simply found a technique to accomplish something you didn't think you could do.

Backing Techniques

I personally have two techniques that I prefer. I call them assisted and unassisted. The assisted technique should be used whenever possible. This is the technique I used when I was the sales manager at an RV dealership. I have total and complete faith in this technique when it is followed properly. If you ever attended an RV show you know what I mean. You are allocated a certain amount of space and in an effort to show as many units as possible you had to back the trailers in within inches of the walls, campers and other obstacles. I have organized many RV shows and never so much as scratched a bumper.

Assisted Technique

The assisted technique implies what it says, that you have a spotter to assist you. It is quite simple. The golden rule is for the driver to do exactly what the spotter tells you to. You may want to discuss who will drive and who will spot, because with this technique the spotter is responsible for putting the trailer where you want it. The first step is to establish hand signals that you both understand and agree on. Once this is done do a thorough inspection of the area you are backing into. It is important that you check the area immediately behind the trailer because for this technique to work effectively the spotter has to stand in front of the tow vehicle. Now you place an object (small orange traffic cones work well) on both sides of the site where you want the back of the trailer to stop at. The spotter will stand in front of the tow vehicle, in clear view of the driver, and can slowly walk from right to left checking blind spots and watching for the back of the trailer to reach the cones. You need to stop occasionally and look behind the trailer. Small children and pets can wander behind the trailer without you seeing them. The reason this technique is so effective is because neither the spotter nor the driver has to think about doing the opposite when backing the trailer. The first step is for the driver to roll the windows down and turn the radio off. The driver leaves their hand on the top of the steering wheel like you're accustomed to and because the spotter is in front of the vehicle they simply tell the driver to turn the steering wheel in the direction they want the back of the trailer to go. So, if the spotter wants the back of the trailer to go to the right they tell the driver to turn to the right. The driver slowly turns and backs in the direction the spotter tells them to. Nobody has to think about it the driver just does what the spotter says to do. The key to driving is slowly turning and backing in the direction the spotter tells you to. The two biggest mistakes made are turning the steering wheel too much and holding it in the turned position to long. If either of these mistakes occurs the result is that it will require greater correction to get straightened out, and if you continue to back while holding the wheel in that position too long the tow vehicle and trailer can jackknife. It will require some practice. The spotter will have to learn that once the trailer is into the turn its time to go the opposite direction to bring the tow vehicle and trailer back in line. Do not be concerned if you have to stop, pull forward and start again. This will happen more than once during the early stages. Try it, and with practice I guarantee that before you know it you'll be backing like pros.

Unassisted Technique

The assisted technique is the preferred method. I do not recommend backing a trailer without a spotter. Young children and pets can wander behind the trailer without you seeing them. However, you need to be prepared in the event that you have to back a trailer without assistance. If the backing maneuver is more than just backing in a straight line, and a turn is required, try to always back from the left side (drivers side). Backing from the left will allow you to see where the trailer is going. Backing from the right side (passenger's side) is your blind side and it is nearly impossible to tell where the trailer is going.

Earlier we discussed that the reason it's difficult to back a trailer is because it is the opposite of everything we have been taught. Fortunately there is a way to back a trailer unassisted without having to work against our natural instincts. This may sound a bit confusing at first, but if you think about it, it makes sense and the good thing is it works.

It is extremely important that you inspect the area behind and around where you will be backing. Look for any obstacles that may be in the way to include low hanging tree branches, picnic tables and utility hook-ups. You need to stop occasionally and inspect the area immediately behind the trailer. If children are present in the area ask somebody to watch behind the trailer. It is a good idea to place some orange traffic cones along the path you want the trailer to follow when you're backing. If you decide it's not necessary to mark a path you do need to place some type of object in your view where you want the back of the trailer to stop at.

In the assisted method we kept our hand on the top of the steering wheel and did exactly what the spotter told us to do. In the unassisted method we place our hand on the bottom of the steering wheel in the center. Now if you want the back of the trailer to go to your left you slowly turn the wheel to your left as you back. To go to your right slowly turn the wheel to your right as you back. It's that easy. By placing your hand at the bottom of the steering wheel you don't have to confuse yourself with turning it in the opposite direction. Remember the two biggest mistakes are turning the steering wheel too much and holding it in the turned position too long. If either of these mistakes happen it may be necessary to pull forward and start over. It may also be necessary to stop, get out and check your progress, especially if you're backing from the right. Take your trailer to a large open area where you can practice and before long you'll be showing off at the campground.

I hope this information is helpful to those of you that have experienced problems backing a trailer.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
Our motor home has been sitting idle since returning from a hunting trip to Pennsylvania after Thanksgiving. I winterized it, cleaned it and took the necessary precautions to store it for a few months, so it would be ready to go when we were ready to go. Well I have cabin fever, and I find myself searching a road atlas with my morning coffee for new destinations to visit. I am even convinced that the motor home is talking to me. “Come on, let's go, the weathers getting nice let's get outta here”. I finally succumbed to it calling me and decided to take it out of its deep winter sleep and prepare it for spring.

March is a fairly safe bet, in this part of North Carolina, that the worst of the whether is over. If by some chance it does dip down to freezing temperatures, I figure I can turn the furnace on to avoid any possibility of the water system freezing. Now that the decision is made we need to figure out what steps to take to prepare the coach and the chassis for camping and traveling. If you're like me, you want to have some type of logical sequence to follow rather then haphazardly checking the unit out. I made a simple checklist to use so that nothing is overlooked. I prefer to do the majority of spring preparation myself. If you're more comfortable having someone else do it contact a reputable RV dealer and schedule an appointment to have it done. In an attempt to keep this article at a reasonable length not all steps can be explained in great detail. This is an excerpt taken from my “Checklists for RVers”

• Depending on how your unit was winterized it will need to be de-winterized. If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze you need to run fresh water through the entire system until the antifreeze is gone. To remove it from the 12-volt water pump add water to the fresh water-holding tank, turn the pump on and open all water faucets. When antifreeze is out of the system turn the pump off and take the water heater out of the by-pass mode (if applicable). Re-install any water filter cartridges you removed for storage.
• At this point I like to sanitize the water system. Make sure all of the drains are closed and drain plugs are installed. Take a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach with water into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water holding tank completely full of water. Turn the pump on and open all faucets, run water until you smell the bleach. Close the faucets and let sit for twelve hours. Drain all of the water and re-fill the tank with fresh water. Turn the pump on and open all faucets until you no longer smell bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process to eliminate all signs of bleach.
• With the water system under pressure Inspect for water leaks. Check the operation of the toilet
• Wash the unit thoroughly. This is a good time to inspect the roof and body seams, and window sealant for cracking that would allow water to get in. Consult a dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.
• Inspect the operation of the Awning and check the awning fabric.
• Inspect the tires for signs of dry rot. Inflate all tires to the recommended COLD tire pressure.
• Lubricate all hinges and locks with spray lubricant.
• Remove any tape or protective covering you may have put over LP gas vents to keep insects and rodents out. Check any mousetraps you may have put out. Open all doors and compartments and check for rodent intrusion and water damage.
• Inspect and clean the interior.
• Plug in any appliances that you unplugged for storage and replace any dry cell batteries you may have removed. This is a good time to put new batteries in items like smoke alarms.
• Test the operation of the carbon monoxide alarm, LP gas leak detector and smoke alarm.
• Check the fire extinguisher. Be sure it is fully charged.
• Reset any breakers you may have turned off. If you removed any fuses for storage re-install them.
• Clean or replace air conditioner filters if it wasn't done prior to storage and remove any covers that were put over air conditioners.
• Open vents and windows and air the unit out.
• If you removed the coach and chassis batteries for storage install them. Whether they were removed or not check the electrolyte levels, clean the terminals and clamps, and check the charge level in all batteries. Recharge batteries as necessary.
• Check the operation of the electric steps if applicable. Lubricate step mechanism.
• Test the operation of the hydraulic jacks if applicable. Check hydraulic fluid level.
• Test the operation of the back up camera and monitor if applicable.
• If you didn't change the oil and filters in the generator prior to storage this is a good time to do it. Inspect the generator exhaust system for damage prior to starting. Start and run the generator for two hours with a minimum half rated load on it. Consult the generators owner manual for load ratings.
• Turn the generator off and plug the unit into shore power. Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode. Allow sufficient time to cool and check for proper operation.
• Check all 12-volt interior lights and accessories.
• Test the monitor panel panel for proper operation.
• Check the operation of slide outs if applicable.
• Check the remaining 120-volt appliances for proper operation.
• Test the Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) for proper operation.
• Turn the refrigerator off, leave the doors open and allow sufficient time for it to get to room temperature so it can be checked in the gas mode.
• Before I use the LP gas system I have a leak test and gas operating pressure test preformed. A qualified technician with the proper equipment should do these tests.
• After this is accomplished turn the LP gas valve on and check the operation of all LP gas appliances. Be sure the water heater is full of water before testing the water heater. If a gas appliance is not operating properly have it inspected by a qualified technician. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas and build nests that can affect the appliance from operating properly.
• If your unit was in long-term storage and you didn't change the engine oil and filter prior to storage this would be a good time to do it
• Check all fluid levels in transmission, power steering, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brakes. Consult vehicle owner's manual.
• Start the engine and check for proper readings on all gauges. Check for proper operation of dash air conditioner.
• A full chassis lubrication should be preformed if it wasn't done prior to storage.
• Check the condition of windshield wiper blades replace in necessary.
• Check the operation of all chassis lights.
• Make sure the vehicle emissions / inspection sticker is up to date.
• In addition to this if you have a pop up or travel trailer the wheel bearings and brakes (if equipped) should be inspected at least once annually. Inspect any canvas for dry rot and tears; inspect all hitch work and the coupler for damage. Inspect the Breakaway Switch and pigtail for proper operation.

This list is not all-inclusive, but it seems to work for me. Now for the fun part, load your clothes, food, and personal belongings, hit the road and have fun exploring this wonderful country we live in.

For more information on how to properly maintain your RV, check out our RV Care and Maintenance DVD

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
Somebody recently asked me what I enjoyed the most about RVing. It didn't take long for me to respond that it was the people you meet at the campground. I don't know of anywhere else that you can meet complete strangers and within a couple of hours feel as if you've known them forever. People at campgrounds are some of the friendliest most helpful people you will ever meet. I have seen it time and again when a camper pulls in and they are having problems with something and their next door neighbor, whom they never met, is right there to assist them. I have also observed and assisted several campers who were new to RVing and not really sure how to set their unit up when they arrive at the campground. While talking to these new Rvers it came up more than once how they wished that they had a checklist to follow to make things easier. I thought this was a wonderful idea, so I added a campground set-up checklist to our e-book “Checklists for RVers”

This is an excerpt from the e-book to assist new campers when they arrive at the campground.

CHECKLIST 14

Campground Set-Up Checklist: (travel trailer & Motor Home)

It would be impossible to cover everything involved with this checklist because of the vast differences between RVs. However most RVs do have many things in common and that is what we will concentrate on. The purpose of this checklist is to provide a basic system of what to do when you arrive at your site. Use only the items that apply to your RV and feel free to tailor the list to your needs. (Pop Ups see separate checklist)

• If you are in a motor home and are towing a vehicle you may want to disconnect the vehicle in the campground registration parking lot before going to your site. Have someone drive the vehicle in front of you to assist in locating your site.
• Conduct a site survey. Identify where all campground connections are and where you want the RV located to have access to all connections. Take into consideration where slide outs will be and if there is room to put the Awning out. Make sure there are no low hanging branches or other obstacles that will interfere with the RV.
• Determine if you need to back in or if it is a pull through site. Position the RV on the site and double-check all clearances and access to hook ups.
• If you have a motor home set the parking brake.
• Level RV as required.
• Chock the wheels.
• Disconnect from the tow vehicle if applicable (see unhitching checklist).
• Put stabilizer jacks down if applicable.
• If you have a motor home and there is a battery disconnect switch for the chassis battery turn it off to prevent any drain on the starting battery.
• If you have an auxiliary battery disconnect switch for the coach battery(s) it should be on.
• Put the entry steps out. If you have a switch for the steps turn it off so the steps stay out when the door is closed.
• Remove slide out travel locks. Put slide out(s) out if they won't interfere with making basic hook ups. Have someone watch for clearance and obstacles in the slide out path. Be sure the driver's seat is not in the way of the slide out.
• Test the campground electricity voltage and polarity with a voltmeter prior to plugging the unit in. Pull enough power cord from the compartment to reach the campground electrical connection. Plug into the receptacle that matches the amperage requirements of your RV. Use electrical adapters as required. If at all possible try to avoid using an extension cord. Some campgrounds have a circuit breaker in the box that must be turned on to allow electricity to the RV.
• Check the RV to make sure electricity is working. If you have a plug in voltmeter plug it into a wall outlet so you can monitor campground voltage during your stay. Any readings below 105 volts or above 135 volts can be dangerous to your appliances and electronic equipment.
• Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode.
• If you have a water pressure regulator hook it up to the campground water supply.
• If you have an exterior water filter hook it up to the city water inlet on the RV. If you don't use a filter attach a 90-degree elbow to the city water inlet to prevent the hose from kinking.
• Attach one end of your potable RV drinking hose (white hose) to the campground water supply and the other end to the city water inlet on the RV.
• Turn the water on and check for any leaks. Make sure you have water coming into the RV.
• When you are hooked up to a city water supply do not use the 12-volt water pump. Only use this when you don't have an external water supply and need to draw water from the fresh water tank.
• Wearing gloves, remove the cap from the sewer hose valve and attach the sewer hose to the sewer drain outlet. Be sure to turn it so the locking tabs securely lock in place. Place the sewer hose donut or seal in the campground sewer connection. Attach the other end of the sewer hose in the donut. Be sure and get a good seal and connection.
• If you have a sewer hose support set it up now allowing a slope from the RV down to the sewer connection to assist in dumping the tanks.
• If you're going to be at the campground for a couple of days or more you can slightly open the Gray Water tank knife valve to allow sink and shower water to drain directly into the sewer. It is the smaller of the two valves. If your only there for the night leave it closed. NEVER leave the black tank valve open (the larger valve). You only open the black tank valve when dumping the tank. When the black tank is ¾ full or full its time to dump it. Dumping the black tank before its near full can cause problems. You will want plenty of water in the gray tank at this time to help flush the sewer hose out. To dump tanks pull the black tank valve all the way out. Let it drain completely then close the valve. Now open the gray tank valve and allow it to drain completely and flush the sewer hose out at the same time. Close the valve. Treat the black tank with holding tank chemicals every time you dump it.
• Turn the main LP gas supply valve on at the tank or bottles.
• If you want hot water at this time be sure that the water heater tank is full of water before you light it. If your water heater has a bypass kit on it make sure that it is not in the bypass mode. Open a hot water faucet and when you get a steady flow of water (no air) the water heater tank is full and you can light the water heater. Follow the instructions for the type of water heater you have. There may also be an electric mode on the water heater. It will take a little longer to heat the water but it will conserve your LP gas.
• If the campground has a cable TV hook up connect your TV coax cable from the RV to the cable connection. If they don't offer cable raise the TV antenna on the RV. Turn the TV and the power booster on. Pull down on the antenna base plate and rotate the antenna until you get the best reception. If you have cable do not use the antenna booster.
• Open the locking tabs on the outside range hood vent door if you plan to use the range exhaust fan.
• Put the outdoor carpet mat down
• Set up the lawn chairs
• Put the awning out (see awning checklist)
• Start the BBQ and have fun!!

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
It doesn't matter whether you own a pop-up or a diesel pusher, when you made the decision to purchase an RV it was a major investment. Like any other major investment there are certain things we must do to protect our investment so we can enjoy it. Your RV needs to be maintained just like your house and automobiles need to be maintained. There are three basic types of maintenance for your RV, preventive maintenance, scheduled maintenance and emergency maintenance.

• Preventive Maintenance is maintenance you perform on your RV before a problem exists. These checks are designed to prevent or identify potential problems that could lead to mechanical breakdown, malfunction or failure of a component or system on your RV. Preventive maintenance consists of cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, adjusting and servicing your RV.
• Scheduled Maintenance or routine maintenance is performed in intervals normally based on time, mileage or hours. Scheduled maintenance is designed to keep your RV in top operating condition and prevent untimely breakdowns and repairs. It is absolutely essential that you read your owner's manual and warranty information in regards to who is responsible for what when it comes to scheduled maintenance. Scheduled maintenance that is required by the manufacturer and not performed can void your warranty.
• Emergency Maintenance - Maintenance and / or repairs required when you least expect it due to component, system or mechanical failure.

The lack of preventive maintenance and / or scheduled maintenance will eventually result in emergency maintenance. If you don't check the air pressure in your tires (preventive maintenance) the under-inflated tire over heats and prematurely fails resulting in emergency maintenance.

Preventive maintenance is really nothing more than common sense maintenance. If you're going to take a thousand mile trip in your automobile common sense tells us at a minimum to check all of the fluid levels, tires and lights. Too often we assume that all of the fluid levels are fine, that there are no leaks and when you look at the tires they look like they are inflated properly. In many cases this is why we have an unexpected break down, because we failed to do a little preventive maintenance.

Now consider an RV. It's larger and heavier than your automobile and its not just the chassis you need to be concerned about, it's your entire house sitting on top of the chassis. The bottom line is an RV requires more preventive maintenance than an automobile. The good news is the average RV owner can perform the required preventive maintenance and prevent untimely break downs and costly repairs (emergency maintenance).

Before you take your next trip put some time aside to perform some preventive maintenance. It could be the difference between a safe and enjoyable trip and a costly disastrous one. How does the old saying go, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! To help make the chore of checking out your RV a little easier I am including a short checklist. Start your preventive maintenance program with these checks and over time add some of your own checks and without even realizing it you will be identifying and preventing potential problems before they exist.

Vehicle Chassis Checklist:

• Always check your owner's manual for routine and scheduled maintenance intervals. Service your vehicle as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Check all fluid levels: engine oil, transmission, power steering, brakes and windshield washer fluid.
• Check the air filter. A clean air filter helps your engine perform better and improves fuel economy.
• Check for any leaks: Look under the RV and or tow vehicle for any indications of leaks. Locate the source of the leak and have it repaired. Transmission fluid leaks contribute to vehicle fires.
• Check radiator coolant: Check the level, condition & concentration of anti-freeze. Antifreeze not only protects the engine in cold temperatures, it helps the engine run cooler in hot temperatures. NEVER CHECK WHEN HOT!!
• Check radiator hoses & clamps: Look for worn, cracked, brittle or soft spots in the hoses. Replace as required.
• Check heater hoses & clamps: Look for worn, cracked, or soft spots in the hoses.
• Check all belts: Look for signs of wear and for any cracks in the belt. Check the belts for proper tension. It's a good idea to take spare belts with you on your trip.
• Check all lights.
• Check wiper blades for wear and poor operation. It's too late once it starts raining.
• Check the starting battery state of charge, water level, cables and connections. If you're not familiar with working around lead acid batteries have them checked at a qualified service center.
• Check the condition of your tires: Look for uneven wear, tread depth and check for proper tire inflation. Check the tire pressure when the tires are cold, before traveling more than one mile.
• Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Check all gauges for proper operation. Monitor your gauges while driving. If a guage is out of the normal range pull over as soon as it is safe and call for assistance.
• Check the dash air for proper operation. Whether you're pulling a pop up a travel trailer or driving a motor home try to avoid using the dash air when the engine is under a strain, such as on an upgrade.
• Check your emergency kit for a flashlight, extra batteries, jumper cables, first aid kit, basic hand tools, and warning devices.
• In addition to this if you have a pop up or travel trailer the wheel bearings and brakes (if equipped) should be inspected at least once annually. Inspect any canvas for dry rot and tears; inspect all hitch work and the coupler for damage. Inspect the Breakaway Switch switch and pigtail for proper operation.

Coach Checklist:

• Test the roof air conditioner(s). Clean or replace A/C filters. Clean filters will help the A/C work more efficiently.
• Test the refrigerator in A/C & LP gas mode. Install a thermostatically controlled refrigerator vent fan.
• In hot weather's trategically park your RV to take advantage of shade. This can
• Make the refrigerator and roof A/C more efficient.
• Install Maxx Air vent covers over roof vents to allow ventilation.
• Check the auxiliary battery(s) state of charge, water level, cables and connections. If you're not familiar with lead acid batteries have them checked by an authorized service center.
• Check operation of the generator under load. Check generator engine oil & all filters. Service the generator as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Check all appliances, electric and gas, for proper operation.
• Thoroughly flush out the holding tanks every time you dump them.
• Check all 12-volt interior lights and accessories
• Check fire extinguishers, smoke alarm, carbon monoxide and LP gas leak detector.
• Inspect the operation of the Awning and check the awning fabric.
• Check the campground electric for proper voltage and polarity before plugging the RV in.
• Drain the water out of the water system when you're not using the RV.
• Now that you performed your preventive maintenance checks go and have a good time and enjoy the fact that there is much less chance of encountering the need for any emergency maintenance during your trip.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
If there is a way to get in your RV, water will find it. Water leaks on an RV can cause extensive damage and can be extremely costly to repair. When I worked at an RV dealership I saw the damaging effects that water can cause to an RV time and time again. I learned the lesson the hard way. I appraised a unit that was being traded in and didn't identify the extensive water damage, which resulted in a thousand dollars worth of repairs. Hindsight is 20/20 and I quickly learned how to inspect for, and identify potential water damage on RVs.

I mention inspecting your RV for water damage in my Winterizing and Storing Your RV video and in my RV Checklists e-book My recommendation is that you inspect for potential water leaks twice a year at a minimum, once in the fall and again in the spring.

Recently we went camping over the weekend and it rained the entire time. Needless to say we spent quite a bit of the trip inside our motor home. To my surprise we noticed water dripping from around the edge of the dome over the shower. I was surprised because I inspected all of the seams on the roof earlier that spring. I am aware that everything flexes and moves on the RV when you are traveling, and that this leak could have started after my inspection, but this was not the case.

When we returned home from our trip I went up on the roof, bent over, and checked the sealant around the shower dome the same way I checked it during my bi-annual inspections. Everything looked fine so I went back in the shower to look again, wondering to myself if it was condensation that caused the drops of water. I removed the trim ring from around the dome and the entire area was saturated with water. Now, as I stood there scratching my head, I was really confused. I made another trip up the ladder unto the roof. Upon closer examination, ON MY HANDS AND KNEES, I discovered two small splits through the sealant around the dome.

This is when I realized that I wasn't really, truly inspecting for leaks, I was just going through the motions. I also realized how fortunate I was to be in the RV when it was actually leaking. If I hadn't caught it when I did I would be the one paying those costly repair bills.

Every seam on your RV and anywhere the manufacturer cut a hole in your RV has the potential to allow water in. To protect your investment and your wallet take the time to REALLY inspect all of these seams and sealants. Water damage on an RV is similar to progressive damage to a tire. The outside of the tire looks fine, but the internal damage over a long period of time causes the tire to fail without any warning. The outside of your RV looks fine but the internal damage caused by water over a long period of time can result in the entire roof, floor or wall rotting away without you knowing it. Here are a few things to look for during your inspections.

Always keep safety on your mind when you are working on the roof of your RV. You can be seriously injured from a fall! One reader suggested that you use 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood, 2 feet by 4 feet, to move around on and spread your weight out over the roof rafters.

• To stop a leak before it starts thoroughly inspect all roof and body seams. Consult with your RV dealer for sealants compatible with different types of materials.
• Look for any discoloration and feel for any soft spots on the ceiling around roof vents, air conditioners, TV antennas, plumbing vents, and any other openings that were cut in the roof.
• Look for any discoloration or wrinkles in the wallpaper, and feel for any soft spots on the walls around all windows, doors, vents, slide outs, or any other openings that were cut in the side walls.
• Identify the location of items like the water heater, furnace, outside shower, potable water fill and city water inlet on the outside of the RV and then access those areas from the inside of the RV and look for any indications of water damage around these openings.
• Open all overhead cabinets and look in the top corner where the walls meet the ceiling for any discoloration or feel for any soft spots. This would indicate a leak at the seam where the sidewall and the roof attach.
• Check in all outside storage compartments for any indications of water leaks or water damage.
• Check for any soft spots on the roof itself especially around the roof seams at the front and rear of the RV. Thoroughly inspect all sealants on the roof around every opening.
• Some Class C motor homes are notorious for leaks in the cab over bed area. Look for any signs of discoloration and feel for soft spots. Reach under the mattress and feel for water.
• Look and feel on the outside of the RV for any signs of delaminating. Delaminating is caused by water getting between the exterior fiberglass and the sidewall. When this happens the exterior fiberglass separates from the sidewall of the RV. You can stand at the front or rear of the RV and look down the side for any noticeable ripples or what looks like a bubble. You can also press on the sidewalls. If you feel the exterior fiberglass move it is delaminating. Often times delaminating starts around where an opening that was made in the sidewall.

Don't just inspect your RV for water damage; REALLY inspect your RV for water damage. If you do this on a regular basis you can locate and repair the source of any water damage before it has a chance to do a great deal of damage. I think I'll start checking our motor home more than twice a year.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
I love the freedom of the open road. There is nothing like exploring the back roads in your RV. You can go where you want and when you want, in your house on wheels, and because of this, often times you find yourself in a new destination everyday. Something that many RVers do not take into consideration with this freedom to roam is the weather conditions where you are traveling too or spending the night. RV's are great, but they are not safe in severe weather like lightning and thunderstorms with high winds, tornadoes and hurricanes.

When you are at home, you usually know what the weather forecast is from the newspaper, radio or television. When you travel three or four hundred miles a day in your RV the weather conditions can change several times. Many times when you stop for the night somewhere all you want to do is get some rest. The weather is the last thing on your mind. The problem with this is severe weather can occur without much warning, and if you are caught in it, it can be disastrous.

So, what do we do, what's the plan? Plan is the key word here. RVers need to have an emergency plan in case of a severe storm. For starters, have you ever heard of the National Oceanic Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Weather Radio or NWR? The NOAA Weather Radio is a nationwide network of radio stations that broadcast continuous weather information directly from a nearby National Weather Service Office. They broadcast National Weather Service warnings, watches, forecasts and other hazard information 24 hours a day. Alerts inform people if they need to take some type of action in order to protect themselves, such as "seeking shelter" or "to evacuate an area immediately!” What does this mean to RVers? It means if you owned a battery operated weather radio Receiver you could monitor weather conditions no matter where you are!

Every RVer should own a weather radio receiver. Receivers are available at most retail stores that sell electronic equipment. Prices can range anywhere from $25 to $200 depending on the quality of the receiver and its features. We actually have two weather radio receivers. We leave one in the RV at all times. When we arrive at our destination, we set it in the "weather" position and tune in to the NOAA station with the strongest signal in that area. When an all-hazard emergency or weather alert is broadcast by NOAA, the receiver sounds an audible alert to notify us that a message is pending. We also have a hand held model that we can use when we are away from the campground. It is perfect for hiking, riding 4-wheelers, boating and many other uses. It is well worth the investment to know what type of weather to expect when traveling or camping in your RV. When we are at home, we use the weather radio receiver in the house. For more information on the NOAA Weather Radio visit our website

OK, the first step to our emergency weather plan is to get a weather radio receiver if you don't already have one, and to always monitor it when you use your RV. The next step is to develop an emergency evacuation plan, to use in the event of severe weather. When you arrive at a campground, ask at the check-in desk about an emergency plan in case of a severe storm such as a tornado, or a thunderstorm with high winds. If they don't have a plan you need to make your own. Locate a structure that is safer than your RV, like a bathhouse or the campground office. Always stay on the lowest level possible and away from doors and windows. Brief everybody with you on the emergency plan. Explain to children how to respond to different disasters and the dangers of severe weather, fires, and other emergencies. Instruct children on emergency exits. Instruct them on how and when to call 911. Make sure everybody knows exactly what his or her job is in case of severe weather. Monitor the weather radio for emergency information. Emergency weather watches and warnings are for counties and towns, so always check a map for the county or town where you are staying.

Have an emergency supply kit made up and easily accessible. The kit should contain flashlights, batteries, rain ponchos, a portable weather radio, first aid kit, non- perishable packaged or canned food and a manual can opener, blankets, prescription and non-prescription drugs, pet supplies, bottled water and any special items for infants, elderly or disabled family members.

To learn more about how to prepare for and react to different types of severe weather take a moment to visit here.

Remember, RVs are not safe in severe weather! This includes severe thunderstorms with high winds, tornadoes and hurricanes. Learn about differenttypes of weather hazards, get a weather radio if you don't have one, create a plan with your family, practice and maintain the plan. Now go RVing and have fun.

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
A motor home offers us the freedom to explore the open road. We can go where we want when we want. But what happens when we arrive at a destination where we plan to stay put for a day, a week or a month? How do explore the area, or take a quick trip to the grocery store? Well, we have our bikes with us right! Bikes are nice and we even get some much needed exercise, but are they really practical for touring the surrounding area or taking a day trip? Probably not, so what do we do?

One option is to disconnect everything from the motor home and take it. What a pain this can be just for a loaf of bread. Another option is to tow a vehicle behind the motor home. Now when we need a loaf of bread or want to take a day trip we have our transportation. This makes much more sense, but just how do we do this?How much weight can we safely tow? Do we need to use a tow dolly or can we tow it with all four wheels on the ground? If we can tow it with all four wheels on the ground do we use a vehicle mounted tow bar or a coach mounted tow bar? What about brakes? What else will I need? These are all good questions, so let’s start at the beginning.

To answer all of your towing questions check out our Towing Behind Your Motorhome DVD

How much weight can we safely tow?

Your motor home has a weight rating referred to as the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). This is the maximum combined weight of the fully loaded motor home and the fully loaded tow vehicle when weighed together. You never want to exceed this or any other weight rating. Another consideration is the amount of weight the hitch Receiver on the back of the motor home is rated for. The motor home itself might have a tow rating of 7,000 pounds, but if the receiver is only rated for 3,500 that’s the most you can tow.

Do we need to use a tow dolly, or can we tow our vehicle with all four wheels on the ground?

Some vehicles can be towed with all four wheels down with no problems while others would result in serious damage to the vehicle transmission. In some cases modifications can be made to the driveline and or transmission so you can tow the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. You need to do your homework before attempting to tow a vehicle with all four wheels on the ground. Read your vehicle owner’s manual and check with the vehicle manufacturer. Many vehicles that can be towed with all four wheels on the ground still have restrictions like max speeds or max distances. In some situations it is best to use a tow dolly. A tow dolly is designed to lift the drive wheels off of the ground to prevent any damage to the tow vehicle. If the vehicle you want to tow requires expensive driveline modifications or has speed and distance restrictions a tow dolly may be the way to go.

If we can tow our vehicle with all four wheels on the ground do we use a vehicle mounted tow bar or a coach mounted tow bar?

If you can tow your vehicle with all four wheels down the first step will be to have tow bar mounting brackets installed on the tow vehicle. Now we can decide on which type of tow bar best suits our needs. Regardless of the type you choose make sure it is rated in excess of the fully loaded tow vehicle weight. There are two basic types of tow bars, a rigid A-frame and a collapsible. Rigid A-frame tow bars are the most basic. They are less expensive and because the arms don’t adjust or collapse they require more precise aligning to hook up.

Collapsible tow bars are more common among RVers. They are self aligning and much easier to hook up and use. The arms extend, self-center and lock in place automatically when you drive away. There are two types of collapsible tow bars, car-mounted and motor home-mounted. Car-mounted tow bars are a little easier to use and fold away on the front of the vehicle when you are finished using it. Motor home-mounted tow bars fold away on the rear of the motor home and never have to be lifted or removed from the front of the vehicle.

What about brakes?

Most U.S. States and Canadian Provinces have their own laws on the requirement for brakes on a towed trailer or vehicle being towed behind a motor home. The brakes on a motor home are designed by the vehicle manufacturer to stop the weight of that particular vehicle, not the additional weight being towed behind it. This additional weight adds a substantial increase to the distance required to stop safely. You need to have some type of braking system on the towed vehicle to SAFELY reduce the stopping distance and to protect you, your loved ones and the safety of others.

What else will I need?

You will need safety cables and lights for the towed vehicle. You need safety cables in the event the towed vehicle is ever separated from the motor home. One end of the cables is attached to the tow vehicle tow brackets and the other end to the receiver on the motor home.

You need to have running lights, tail lights, brake lights and turn signals on the towed vehicle that work in conjunction with the motor home lights. If you don’t tow your vehicle that often you may want to purchase a light accessory kit that can be strapped to the tow vehicle or uses magnets. These kits have a wiring harness that is plugged into the motor homes wiring harness plug. If you tow your vehicle frequently you will probably want to use a more permanent method where tow vehicle lights are wired directly to the motor home lights. Once this is done you just plug the tow vehicle wiring harness plug in to the motor home wiring harness plug.

The only thing left to do is hook up your tow vehicle and head down the road. Try to get in the habit of making the following checks before you leave and every time you stop. Check the tow bar, base-plate, safety cables and light plug to make sure everything is properly attached. When you stop check the tires of the towed vehicle to make sure they are not to hot or losing air. If you are using a dolly or trailer, check the wheels to make sure they are not hot to the touch. If the wheels are hot, it may indicate a brake or bearing problem. Check all of the lights everyday before towing.

Check out our instant download Dinghy Towing e-book

By Mark Polk, RV Education 101
Today I would like to offer 10 quick tips to help extend the life of your RV and automobile lead acid batteries. Battery maintenance is not that difficult but always keep safety in mind when you work around batteries. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. The hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they’re charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Tip #1

Routine maintenance and recharging a discharged battery as soon as possible will extend the life of the battery.

Tip #2

Sulfation will occur when a battery’s state of charge drops below 80 %, or 12.4 volts. Recharging a battery at an 80% state of charge will prevent battery sulfation.

Tip #3

Never let a battery discharge below 10.5 volts. You can measure the voltage with a digital voltmeter. Measuring the voltage gives you a quick picture of the batteries depth of discharge so you know when they need to be recharged. Set the voltmeter on DC voltage and put the red lead on the positive terminal and the black lead on the negative terminal.

Tip #4

Reducing the battery’s depth of discharge will increase the life of the battery. A battery discharged to 50 % everyday will last twice as long as it would if it’s cycled to 80%.

Tip #5

RV’s have parasitic loads that will discharge the battery over time. Some but not all of these loads are LP gas leak detectors, the TV antenna power booster, clocks, stereos and appliance circuit boards. If your RV is equipped with a battery disconnect switch make sure it is in the OFF position when you are not using the RV or when it is in storage. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a battery disconnect that installs directly to the battery.

Tip #6

Hot temperatures and overcharging kill batteries. During hot weather or during high usage check the batteries frequently. Checking the electrolyte levels and adding distilled water as required can save your lead acid batteries.

Tip #7

When you add water to a battery, use mineral free water. Distilled water is best. Regular tap water can cause calcium sulfation.

Tip #8

Properly charging your batteries needs to be done in stages. A bulk charge should be performed to return the battery to 90% of a full charge in the first few hours. An absorption charge is used for the remaining 10 percent to prevent any battery gassing and loss of water, and then a float charge to keep the battery fully charged.

Tip #9

Batteries should only be watered after charging unless the plates are exposed prior to charging.

Tip #10

To prevent water loss from bubbling and gassing leave the vent caps on batteries while charging.

Note:

The lead and plastic used to construct batteries can be recycled. More than 97% of all battery lead is recycled. Be sure and recycle your old batteries.